1959 R60

[Jim D 5112]

I think that it would hurt the value of the plate by coating it with clear. I would treat it with a turpentine and linseed oil mix of 50% each.
Put a coat on with a cloth and let it set for a couple of hours or so and then wipe off the excess. It will bring out the paint color and protect it from rusting any more. But it is your plate and up to you. I would think the plate would be worth quite a bit of money.

[Gossamer69]

Will never let the plate go and will try your suggestion. I want to keep it as original as possible bike and plate.

Way to cool with the family history alone.

[Gossamer69]

Thank you for your email.

The BMW R 69 VIN 654196 was manufactured on July 24th, 1959 and delivered on the same day to the BMW dealer Damm in Kassel, Germany. The bike was a black solo bike with bench seat in US version.

We hope this information is helpful for you.

Yours sincerely,

Julia Oberndörfer

[bstratton]

Its a long one but I just completed a restoration of an R50/2. I picked it up in similar condition. Dirty and very rusty, but all there.

http://vintagebmw.org/v7/node/14658

I did virtually everything myself. The only operations I jobbed out was the machine work (had the cylinders bored one-over and replaced pistons and had the heads done with a complete valve job). I also paid someone to do the pin-striping. I completely rebuilt the motor, new clutch, replaced spokes and rims, re-laced and trued the wheels. All new wheel bearings, front and rear swing-arm bearings, steering head bearings. Media blasted the frame and tins, repaired the dents and other bodywork issues and re-painted them myself. Very little re-plating but lots of stainless nuts, bolts, washers, new seat, handlebars, crash-bars, headlight reflector.... the list is endless. My guess is that I have about $10k into it right now including the purchase price of $2,500.00 but I may be off a little - or in denial. I just finished and could not be happier with the result. Some will say it is over-restored. My friend Keith being one of them but that is just a matter of preference. I like that fact that it looks new and I kept it as stock as possible including the paint color (after seriously considering something different). I did not rebuild my transmission or final drive. Just cleaned them and replaced the oil. I did mix a little kerosene in with the new oil, spun them as much as I could by hand and drained them before the final re-fill. I have no evidence of seals leaking so I got away with it. Not sure if I would tackle the transmission myself but not out of the question.

I posted most all of my issues and a bunch of just updates but lots of detail. If you are considering a full restoration I would suggest 3 things: First - Get the Barrington book and use it. When you first get it, it is worth reading through the introduction sections to understand how it is formatted and how it is intended to be used. It is PACKED with extremely valuable insight and information. Worth its weight in gold. Second - Take your time disassembling the bike and take TONS of pictures and LOTS of notes. In particular record what you do in a log and date everything. that makes it much easier to go back and find pics (I keep my file names original because they are dates). It also is a good guide to the re-assembling order. The Barrington book has a good guide but if you took it apart in that order it will go back together in the reverse order. I also used about a full box of freezer ziplock storage bags. Label and bag EVERYTHING. You will not remember where you put things a year after taking it apart. Third - DO NOT skimp on tools. You will need a bunch of special tools and they are all available - mostly from Dan at Cycle Works but there are other sources. I would say as a fourth, keep in touch with this forum but you are already there. There is a wealth of experience and information available here. Also, MaxBMW has a micro-fiche parts site that I used extensively to get part numbers and consult the blow-up images. They are very helpful in figuring out how things go together. I'll keep an eye out here and if I think I can add value I will chime in. I understand that you have limited time to do this so if you are so inclined to go "full monty" depending on your personal situation, plan on spending probably more time than you estimate. Particularly if you send things out for others to do. Depending on your confidence level, doing thins like re-building the motor yourself can save a lot of money. If I remember correctly, the full set of bearings, seals and gaskets cost in the range of about $450.00. Clutch plate $150, Tools, another $300. Any machine work needed is, of course what it is. I did send my cylinders and pistons to a machine shop for evaluation, which resulted in the re-boring and new pistons. The valve job was happening regardless. Why bother re-building the lower end without renewing the top end? In my case I did not need the crank re-built. That would have added quite a bit of expense. Sending the complete motor out for a "re-build" can get quite pricey.

Good luck! Now that my project is done I am a bit envious. Plus the R69 is a very cool bike. I have ridden my buddies and it is a sweet ride indeed.

[pokie]

Reproduction ignition keys are available at almost any BMW dealer or mail order BMW parts house. Tool box keys and steering lock keys are a different kettle of fish. Sometimes the blanks alone can be hard to come by. A really good locksmith should be able to make a key BUT at the expense they will charge, you would be better off to just replace the locks. If the locks are the original locks, you should be able to send the vin number to BMW and they will be able to make a key for the original locks. If the locks have ever been changed, you'll be out of luck there.

[miller6997]

The Neiman key blanks for the fork lock and tool box are available on eBay, and they are usually cheap. Asian sellers usually offer them for a few dollars, and the seller called Spike Buck (Klassic Cycle Stuff) has them as well. Note that the /2 blanks are not the same as the ones for the airheads, so make sure you're getting the right ones. Although they work just fine, my guess is that these blanks are knock-offs, because to my knowledge the Neiman company is no longer in business. "Authentic" Neiman blanks for vintage European cars often sell for hundreds of dollars.

[R68]

I'm sorry but I have to disagree with you on multiple points. This is a very desirable survivor motorcycle with low milage that's dirty but in fine unrestored condition that needs a new seat, correct handlebars, and some quality time with a bucket of soapy water, gunk, and elbow grease. It almost certainly certainly has it original matching toolbox and fork lock, and any real locksmith can make a key in less than 5 minutes: by me in rust belt land, costs about $10. The Taylor lock blank for the original Neimann key is B69K and cost's about 50 cents.

As for BMW matching key to serial number, maybe nowadays but certainly not for a 1959 motorcycle. The "ignition key" is a few dollars...(I like that bike so much that I'll give you the ignition key and Taylor blank for free, contact private message)

Do your research and don't screw this bike up.

[pokie]

I wish I lived around you R68, I can only speak of the locksmiths from around here in Colorado and some in California. I've had the so-called locksmiths here try to pick a steering lock for a half an hour before giving up, I ended drilling that one out to make the bike roll able. I had a lock that I needed a blank for on a 1963 R60, I just needed a blank to cut from my only original key. After looking through all of his blanks (didn't have one) he ordered a few that looked right. After three weeks, I finally had an extra key. I sure didn't like the idea of leaving my original and only key with him. On a separate note, I have an older Schwinn bicycle with girder forks. After several years of trying here and there to get a key made for the steering lock, I finally gave up. All I can say is you must have some really good locksmiths where you are, you should feel quite lucky!

[miller6997]

I supplied my local locksmith with a correct blank and he made a key for the fork lock in just a few minutes. Any locksmith worthy of the name should be able to do the same. He also made a copy of the new key, so that I now have one to carry and one to keep in the safe. He charged the work to my AAA card (check your coverage), so my total cost was a few bucks for the blank.

[Gossamer69]

Can someone send me a link for a key blank that will match my 59?

Just want to make sure I get the right one.

Ignition key were easy to find, the tool box/fork lock seem to be a bit more challenging.