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bstratton
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Hello BMW gurus!

I have just finished up a restoration of a 1971 R60/5. My first ever classic beemer. Love Love Love that bike. I did it all myself including paint except machine work on heads/valves and pin striping. It runs like new and is the BEST riding bike I have ever had the pleasure to experience.

Now I have an opportunity to pick up a 1964 /2. I have not seen it yet. It is a true barn find and I am just trying to get the owner to let me go see it. He sent a few pics but knows nothing about it. It was his father-in-laws bike - now his wife's bike. No one in the family has any interest and a friend of a friend got us in touch. He mentioned $3 to $5k. I can't tell what it is but it looks to be complete and unmolested. It looks its age. It is definitely a twin so it has to be an R50, R60, or R69S. It has high rise handle bars with cross bar. Bench seat. 7440 miles on speedo. Yes that is not a typo. looks like turn signals or at least reflectors at the end of the grips. I don't see any mirrors. Trailing link Earles forks. Was told it was driven (ridden) into garage and has sat there for years. surface rust and paint chipped on frame. tank and fenders hard to tell but don't look bad. Chrome is rust stained. Push rod tubes rusty. Just generally neglected for a long time.

I plan to make this pretty again and ride it. repaint if necessary (probably is) but just clean it up if not. Mechanically, I can figure things out and have some good sources for parts.

Questions:

What is:

Value estimate range in that condition. I know they are pretty valuable in nice shape but not sure about one like this.
Degree of difficulty compared to my /5
availability of pieces/parts
Anything specific I should look for that is common and costly to fix

This forum has been a wealth of knowledge and I would appreciate any sage advice offered.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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pics

some pics.... This is all i have

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

stagewex
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The high bars and the

The high bars and the pull-back risers tell me it was originally ordered for a taller rider. The turn signals on the rear are not original (they didn't have any on the rear). Nice narrow seat. The bar-end Hellas are options that most folks ordered from the dealer so probably are originals.

Do you know if the engine can turn? If you could get it running you could probably do fine with a big clean-up and wax.
Missing paint and rust are fine. If "you" can't get it running yourself it can get expensive. Definitely a nice looking project.
A non-runner for $5000.00 seems pretty high but I'm currently selling my /2 for just a little more than double that ($11,000.00) and it doesn't need anything. I'm looking at it from a different perspective of really riding or buying a project.
I do like it though, Looks nice.

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mike wex/stagewex
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol

Daves79x
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Pretty Sure

I'm pretty sure it's an R50. Good, complete project. It all depends on what you want, but after totally restoring your /5, I find it hard to believe that you won't want this one looking pretty good. I'd sure try for the low end on price, as there are a lot of variables. 4K wouldn't really be out of line, 5K is pretty high for an R50 in that shape.

Parts are readily available, they are pretty easy to do the normal maintenance stuff to. Any engine work can get expensive, but easily enough accomplished.

Good luck!

Dave

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Dave

schrader7032
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Yup, the barrel fins (aka

Yup, the barrel fins (aka lack of coming to a point) suggests that it's an R50/2. Use the search box on the left side of the screen to confirm the VIN range of the bike. Also, look at the PDF file that is attached to the model page to get some sense of when the bike was built.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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Good stuff. Didn't even

Good stuff. Didn't even notice the rear turn signals. Don't know if the motor turns. Haven't seen it yet. A bound up motor would certainly lower the price.

On my /5 the frame and motor numbers matched. Should they match on the 64 if the motor is original?

I'll do some ore research before making an offer but unless this thing is way worse than it appears or the asking price is unreasonable I think I may be riding a /2 this spring. Told the Admiral that I would sell the /5 but even she knows that will probably never happen.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

miller6997
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Matching numbers

Yes on the importance of matching numbers. There is a general agreement that a mismatch seriously affects how much you should pay and how much you can ask if/when you decide to sell the bike.

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Jon Miller
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT

Slash2
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Sunday Bike Show

Hey Dave hope to see you at the bike show tomorrow with your R50!

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

Daves79x
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Yes Sir!

I'll be there Chris! Look forward to seeing you.

Dave

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Dave

808Airhead
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I would say that is a 2500-3k

I would say that is a 2500-3k bike.

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

bstratton
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Finally got the chance to

Finally got the chance to take a look. Nice complete bike that has been sitting in the garage for at least 10 years. Here's what I found:

Rust is heavy - the garage is about 100 feet from Plymouth Harbor (Massachusetts)
Bike is 100% complete and original. Looks like it was ridden into the garage and then not touched.
High handlebars and bench seat. Seat is in remarkably good condition
Gas was drained when put away. The inside of the tank is pristine. Nice red coating. no deterioration, rust or dirt
Condition of frame, tank headlight bucket and fenders is essentially perfect except for the paint. small dent in the chrome headlight ring.
All the lenses for the lights are intact
Paint (black) isn't bad except for frame (lots of surface rust)
Rubbers are remarkably good except missing rubber on shifter
both brakes operate easily, throttle moves easily, clutch operates
tires hold air but will need to be replaced. spokes are rusty
oil looks like it was changed when put up. like new. motor turns over easily. there is compression (by feel - didn't do a compression check)
shifter operates and it feels like it is changing gears but I can operate the kick start in any gear with no movement of the rear wheel.
Factory handlebar reflectors

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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hit save too fast Factory

hit save too fast

Factory handlebar reflectors (I meant bar end hellas) to use the correct term
Numbers match and it is indeed an R50
The rear facing directionals may be add-ons but they are old and actually look pretty cool

Here's the best part - I got it for $2,500. First offer. I think they just want to get rid of it because they have so much else to deal with.

I should have it Monday, weather permitting (I have an open trailer)

Can't wait to get my hands on this little beauty! I am tempted to just clean it up real good and make it street worthy and leave it at that. It's that complete and original.

I'll have lots of questions. I'm counting on you guys!

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

The Plunger
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Cool, you got in at a good

Cool, you got in at a good price an you'll need that cushion for what you'll spend in parts to still be above water when it's done. Good luck!

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Brian
'52 R67/2
'63 R69 S
In what space, sir. In what space!?

Daves79x
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Congrats!

You did indeed get 'in' at a good price. Yes, these can be money pits, most of us keep rough track of expenses, for a while! Then it's just a labor of love and in the end you'll have a bike you can enjoy and be proud of. More pics when you can!

Dave

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Dave

skychs
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Nice

Very nice. It will be a labor of love and you will enjoy "almost" every minute of it. Strip it down to the frame. Get it painted/powder coated and have fun. Congrats.

bstratton
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That's the plan... I will do

That's the plan... I will do the paint (except pinstriping) myself. I did it on my 71 and it came out great. I have access to a professional paint booth so that makes it a lot easier and there is a gentleman close by who can freehand the pinstripes for a couple hundred bucks.

First question for those with experience with this: Should I stay with the 6 volt system or convert to 12

I'll have the bike Sunday and will share some pics before I start tearing it down.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

stagewex
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You can upgrade to a 12 volt

You can upgrade to a 12 volt PowerDynao system for I'm guessing $800.00+. Lot of folks have done it here.
You do not have to hack anything up to do this which is a big plus for keeping everything else original. Basically you could "go back" if you or a future buyer wanted to. Make sure you save all the original 6 volt parts.

Carefully inspect the original harness to make sure it's ok whether you stay 6v or go 12v. Mice love to eat that stuff.

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mike wex/stagewex
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol

Wayne J in MA
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pinstriping

I am also in the Boston area. I would love to have the contact info for your pinstriper.

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'62 R69S, '71 R75/5 SWB, '78 R100S Motorsport

skychs
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LED's

bstratton wrote:

That's the plan... I will do the paint (except pinstriping) myself. I did it on my 71 and it came out great. I have access to a professional paint booth so that makes it a lot easier and there is a gentleman close by who can freehand the pinstripes for a couple hundred bucks.

First question for those with experience with this: Should I stay with the 6 volt system or convert to 12

I'll have the bike Sunday and will share some pics before I start tearing it down.

A lot of guys upgrade to the 12v system because of the lights. I simply switched to LED's. Its a lot less expensive and they really do make a difference.

I just restored an R60/2. Here is the link to that build.

http://www.vintagebmw.org/v7/node/14004

bstratton
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Wayne - I need to go back and

Wayne - I need to go back and try to find my pin striper's contact info. I found him on another web site that had a link from this one but I remember it was a convoluted process to get to him. He lives in Newburyport. Stay tuned. I'll find it but it may take a little while.

Skychs - So you simply installed 6V LEDs. Didn't know those existed...

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

skychs
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LED lights

bstratton wrote:

Wayne - I need to go back and try to find my pin striper's contact info. I found him on another web site that had a link from this one but I remember it was a convoluted process to get to him. He lives in Newburyport. Stay tuned. I'll find it but it may take a little while.

Skychs - So you simply installed 6V LEDs. Didn't know those existed...

Yes .... plug and play. All 6 volt. I have them in the front and tail lights. Incredible difference. Here is the link from this web site.

http://www.vintagebmw.org/v7/node/14125

bstratton
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Thanks, Skychs. I like the

Thanks, Skychs. I like the idea of keeping the 6V system in place.

Wayne - The gentleman I referred to who does pinstriping is Bruce Deveau. His email is bdeveau2@comcast.net. I'll send you a message with his cell phone. I just spoke with him and he was fine with me forwarding his info along.

He is exceptionally good in my opinion but his availability can be spotty. He will require that the fenders and tank be delivered to his place in Newburyport. He does the work there in his basement. In my case, he did it while I waited and I took the parts home with me all done. You just need to be very careful about how you pack them for transportation. It took him about 90 minutes if I remember correctly. My bike has the original pin stripes so I am going to send him a bunch of pictures with measurement references so he can create a good template from an original pin stripe job.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

Wayne J in MA
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Westwood
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contact info

Yes bstratton I got your email. Thank you very much. It probably will be a couple of months before I need him. Right now I am laid up with a broken collar bone and can't work on any of the bikes.

Wayne

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'62 R69S, '71 R75/5 SWB, '78 R100S Motorsport

bstratton
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Just picked up the new

Just picked up the new project bike. Upon further inspection, I don't think the pin stripes are original... Too bad. My pin striping guy was looking forward to some more pics of original stripes. Just took about 100 close up pics so now it's time to get started on this rebuild. I need an owners manual and service manual.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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Is a key for the toolbox

Is a key for the toolbox available. Would that be the same as the fork lock key

Also, the battery is in a "box" made from some sort of pliable material held together with duct tape. Should there be a battery box

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

The Plunger
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bBy the pics Id guess the

bBy the pics Id guess the fenders stripes are original but not the tank. The toolbox and fork lock should be the same but it seems very rare that they are after 50 years. The key is coded so if you don't have it you'll have to take the rubber knee pad off and drill out the rivets to remove the lock to get a lock smith make you a key, or just buy a new matched pair of toolbox and fork lock. Locked toolboxes are like little treasure chests, you'll don't know what you'll find inside!
Batteries originally were in rubber or plastic case and you can get nice old looking ones from Benchmark, S Meyer and the like. I would go with a sealed battery. Do a search under both topics on the forum, there are many discussions regarding both.

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Brian
'52 R67/2
'63 R69 S
In what space, sir. In what space!?

skychs
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Bike

Very nice bike. Take your time and enjoy the build. The more I rushed the more I messed up. Don’t skimp on all the bushings and seals. Replace them all while you have it apart and it will be the smoothest bike you ride. Are you planning on starting a blog?

bstratton
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a blog? I think I'll tackle

a blog? I think I'll tackle one technology issue at a time. I'm lucky I can include pics and links.

I'll probably just keep this thread going. Well on the way now. Got the tank, seat, mufflers, pegs, battery, rear wheel, rear fender, handlebar and rear brake linkage, lever and brake switch all removed. Wire harness is back to the headlight bucket except the motor wiring. Carbs are off, too.

No surprises so far. Tank has been painted. Fender paint looks original - sort of..

This bike has all the mounts for the sidecar including an electrical connection just above the battery under the seat. Is that standard?

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

Daves79x
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Yes

Yes, sidecar stuff is all standard on the Earles fork bikes.

Dave

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Dave

bstratton
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I came across my first real

I came across my first real issue with the bike last night. Taking off the manifold pipes, the right hand exhaust nut was very uncooperative. To make a long story short, the cast threaded part of the head broke and came off with the nut. I can't imagine there is a fix for that other than a new head. From what I have seen they are available but run around $1,000.00. Ouch!

I am of course questioning my method. I did use a penetrant- in fact I have applied WD-40 on every nut and bolt I could find multiple times. I also used heat. Not a ton but it was pretty hot. I did not use the BMW tool. I used a pipe wrench as I am replacing the pipes anyway. I was careful not to deform the casting but with all the pressure I applied I'm pretty sure I did. Worked without any problems on the left side.

That increased my budget estimate by a LOT. Ah well.... Let the money roll

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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Any suggestions on locating a

Any suggestions on locating a RH head for a 1965 R50 would be very much appreciated - new or used in good condition. I have the rockers and valves - just need the head.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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The exhaust port threaded

The exhaust port threaded stub is a weak point on BMWs. I also learned the hard way and destroyed the threads on one cylinder on my R100/7. That was back in the early 1980s. I ended up taking the head to a mechanic near me who welded on a new aluminum pipe and had threads cut. One must use a good anti-seize lubricant and the exhaust nuts should be removed each year to refresh the lubricant. If the nuts don't move or are reluctant to move, the best thing to do is to use a hacksaw to cut the thread and then take a cold chisel to break the nut so it can be removed.

So if you can find someone to weld on a new stub, that would be an option. I would contact Cycleworks and see if they can do it or know someone who could. You could check with Vech for similar ideas...he might even have a head for sale.

Here is an example of a bolt-on clamp that could be used, either as a new replacement or a temporary solution:

https://www.sternmutterersatz.de/BMW-V2-Airhead-Exhaust-Stub-Repair-Clam...

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Jim D 5112
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Penetrating Oil

I would discard your WD 40 and purchase Kroil or at the least PB Blaster which has been tested as a close second. Both are way better than what you have. If you look for the Kroil Google Deal the price is not too bad. By using a pipe wrench you only applied pressure to two areas of the nut and it delivers not only a rotational force but also a crushing force that can collapse the nut and make it tighter on the aluminum casting. The proper tool uses more of a rotational force on the nut. I would have been spraying them for a couple of weeks before or as Schrader said cut them with a hacksaw or slice them with a Dremel. I would cut them at 3 different places. A expensive lesson that I am sure you will remember just like some of mine that are etched in my memory.

stagewex
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Kroil is an amazing product.

Kroil is an amazing product. Freed a few engines that were left for dead with Kroil.

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mike wex/stagewex
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol

bstratton
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Yup. Won't do that again. I

Yup. Won't do that again. I actually have both WD-40 and PB Blaster on my bench. Never used Kroil but I'll look for it. I did the left first and it came off easily. Guess I got fooled by that. I was very surprised the threaded flange broke. didn't feel like I used that much force.

Lesson learned.

My master thief son-in-law picked the tool box lock. Yes, there was a tool pouch in there and it has lots of goodies but missing a couple things I think. No spanner, for instance and no irons. Luckily I have those in my '71 tool box so I was able to get the rear swingarm off.

Is there a list available of the tools that came with the bike

Transmission is out. Motor coming out tonight. Going to clean or replace the slingers based on all the stories I have read.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

Daves79x
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I Assume

I assume that you have very little in the way of special tools for the bike other than the factory tool kits? If that's the case, and you found out the hard way, you will need to seriously sit down and evaluate what work you plan to do on the bike, then what special tools you will need. No other way around it. Since I started the restoration and through completion of my R50, I've probably bought over $1000 worth of special tools. You are going to need a lot of what I bought to do what you need to just for the chassis and engine. Many things you will try to do without the proper tools will turn out like your head. It's just what you have to do.

Used heads are not really expensive, but right ones are harder to find. R50-R60 from any year will work. But I think yours can be repaired just as cheaply.

Dave

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bstratton
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Tools

Daves79x wrote:

I assume that you have very little in the way of special tools for the bike other than the factory tool kits? If that's the case, and you found out the hard way, you will need to seriously sit down and evaluate what work you plan to do on the bike, then what special tools you will need. No other way around it. Since I started the restoration and through completion of my R50, I've probably bought over $1000 worth of special tools. You are going to need a lot of what I bought to do what you need to just for the chassis and engine. Many things you will try to do without the proper tools will turn out like your head. It's just what you have to do.

Used heads are not really expensive, but right ones are harder to find. R50-R60 from any year will work. But I think yours can be repaired just as cheaply.

Dave

Dave - I could not agree more. I am in the process of looking right now. So far I bought a Clymers service manual and Vech's restoration book, which has not been delivered yet. I typically buy tools as I need them but in this case I think I can pick up some based on my plans and take it from there. My slash5 didn't require a lot of special tools but I did buy an exhaust nut wrench!

What is your opinion of the many-in-one tool from Cycle Works

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

ScottA
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San Diego
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exhaust spigot repair

A few shops are capable of machining-off the broken spigot and welding-on a replacement.
I've seen the process and it's quite effective and not exorbitant. Suggest you talk to Vech at Bench Mark Works regarding recommendations.

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'61 R27, '63 R60/2 etc.

Daves79x
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B

B - I have the Cycle Works compliment of special tools, including the many-in-one. It is well thought out and made. Excellent instructions are included as to it's use. You'll find that several other accessories are needed as well to completely disassemble the engine. Use of the wife's oven is a must also. As well as a torch and a hot plate. You can find a perfect hot plate for this use at WalMart. Harbor freight is a good source for a blind bearing puller and some generic pullers. I also bought their 20 ton press. It's OK for doing the /2 stuff, as are their other tools, just not robust enough for the everyday mechanic. If you get to doing some of this, give me a shout.

Dave

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bstratton
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Dave - Thanks for the

Dave - Thanks for the recommendation. I have a lot of generic tools like pullers but the many-in-one tool looks like it will be pretty useful. My local MaxBMW shop just finished building a new machine shop and brought an experienced machinist on board. I'm going to have him take a look at my heads, jugs and pistons. Hopefully he can help with the exhaust flange.

I'm in the middle of a project on the exterior of my house and trying to get it done before the snow flies so not much time for the bike right now. Only on rainy days. I'll probably get the motor out and on the bench this week after work some night.

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1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

bstratton
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My local BMW shop says they

My local BMW shop says they can fix my head. Haven't seen an estimate yet but I am hopeful. Also have the many-in-one kit coming and the restoration manual from Bench Mark Werks. Hoping to have the bike completely torn down this weekend and ready to start prepping for paint. My left rear shock and spring fell out when I took the rear swingarm off. It looks like the threaded part at the bottom stripped out or something. I included a couple pics. A little surprising.

2 questions:
Dave - I get the need for a torch and the oven but what do I need a hot plate for
Does anyone have any experience with Caswell's CAD kit

(my question mark and forward slash key doesn't work)

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

Daves79x
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Hot Plate

A hot plate really helps when installing the crank and cam. After heating the crankcase in the oven to hopefully close to 300 degrees, I use the hot plate to set the bell housing end of the crankcase right down on. This keeps the rear crank bearing carrier and rear cam bearing cavity hot, and they need to be. Just watch putting too much heat on the rear main bearing once the crank is installed, and before the cam is in.

Dave

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Dave

ScottA
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VBMWMO #7638
San Diego
Joined: 08/09/2007
Posts: 296
shocks

bstratton wrote:

My left rear shock and spring fell out when I took the rear swingarm off. It looks like the threaded part at the bottom stripped out or something.

Not sure that you have that big a problem here.
The shock damper has very fine threads where it screws into the lower shock-eye housing.
Still, they are capable of unscrewing over time due to the constant action.
Yours appears to have over-greased with anti-seize which may have promoted this result.

more on that here: http://www.vintagebmw.org/v7/node/10092

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'61 R27, '63 R60/2 etc.

bstratton
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ignition switch

Bike is almost apart enough to start prepping for paint. I believe I will need to remove the ignition switch to get the ignition cover off the headlight bucket. Assuming the ignition switch on the /2 is held in the headlight bucket with folding metal tabs like the /5.... I forget if the tabs on the chrome cover hold the switch (lock) plate in or if there are separate tabs that just hold the switch lock plate ( think there are).

I have searched the forums and found a few mentions of this but not much. I remember once reading a conversation related to a way to reduce the risk of breaking the tab(s) but can't find it. Any advice would be appreciated.

Also, there is a red indicator lamp on the head of the steering where the handlebars attach. I am assuming it is an after market turn signal indicator as I can't think of anything else it could be. The bike has bar end hellas and after-market rear directionals.

Photo attached. can't figure out how to make it not sideways.

  • 20171130_204555.jpg
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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

312Icarus
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The tabs holding the ignition

The tabs holding the ignition switch is the same as the /5s, and is a bugger to do, on the bike anyway.

Icarus

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Battery question

I was afraid of that. I got away with it on my /5. Easier with the bucket on the bench.

I am looking for a repro 6V battery but all I see are boxes that look like the original batteries. The kind that you would put a new (probably sealed) battery into. Sealed batteries are great for fire alarm panels with steady solid state charges but I don't like them in automotive applications. Thought I'd get in touch with Vech at Bench Mark but that's all I have.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

skychs
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Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 266
switch

bstratton wrote:

Bike is almost apart enough to start prepping for paint. I believe I will need to remove the ignition switch to get the ignition cover off the headlight bucket. Assuming the ignition switch on the /2 is held in the headlight bucket with folding metal tabs like the /5.... I forget if the tabs on the chrome cover hold the switch (lock) plate in or if there are separate tabs that just hold the switch lock plate ( think there are).

I have searched the forums and found a few mentions of this but not much. I remember once reading a conversation related to a way to reduce the risk of breaking the tab(s) but can't find it. Any advice would be appreciated.

Also, there is a red indicator lamp on the head of the steering where the handlebars attach. I am assuming it is an after market turn signal indicator as I can't think of anything else it could be. The bike has bar end hellas and after-market rear directionals.

Photo attached. can't figure out how to make it not sideways.

For my restoration I had to rebuild mine as well. It was not fun and I spent hours on it. Since the harness was already on the bike I turned the headlight bucket upside down to finish the wiring and placement of the board. What a PINA it was. Just take your time. it will take a couple try's but you can do it. What ever you do don't loose the two small ball bearings.

This is what I used. For specific questions I called Vetch and he was very helpful.

This may help. http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/ignkeys/index.htm

Edit ..... don't forget to heat the tabs before you move them. There is a specific term for it but I forgot. Sorry.

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6666
The tabs become work hardened

The tabs become work hardened when they are bent a number of times. In order to return the metal to a more flexible state, it must be annealed. If I recall correctly, the tabs stick through the circuit board...here's a picture from Duane's site:

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/ignkeys/bmw_motorcycle_switch6.jpg

So heating the tabs before removal is not a good idea. Only move the tabs enough to get the board out. Then once all is clear, use a fine heat source and heat the tabs to cherry red. There is a good chance that the paint on the headlight will be affected. Using a cold cloth on the bucket can help minimize that.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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armature

Thanks for the guidance on the tabs. I will be re-painting the headlight bucket so the ignition cover needs to come off.

Now I have the motor on the bench. took the generator body off but can't get the armature off. Allen bolt came out easily enough but the armature is not cooperating.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6666
You need a special bolt to

You need a special bolt to "push" the armature/rotor off. Cycleworks sells this bolt...others might as well. It's a bolt about 6-7 inches long with the proper pitch threads. The first inch or so of the bolt has the threads machined off. It's possible to use a hardened bolt cut down or maybe an old drill bit of the proper size. This is stuck into the hole first and then the rotor bolt is put back in and pushes against the hardened bolt. The rotor will eventually pop off...be ready to catch it.

Whatever you do, use the right "tool" otherwise it might bend or become lodge in the nose of the camshaft. You won't have a good day if that happens.

Google "bmw motorcycle rotor removal tool" and look at the images that come up. The best info is on Snowbum's website.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

bstratton
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Posts: 188
Thanks, Kurt. Glad I didn't

Thanks, Kurt. Glad I didn't try and get too persuasive with the rotor. I'll look into this. I have the many-in-one tool from Cycleworks. If that tool is not part of it I will get it from them.

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2
MA

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