Hoping to acquire a 'new' beemer - a R60/5

Darryl.Richman · Post by **Darryl.Richman** » Thu Nov 25, 2010 10:19 am

Hi,

After experiences with an R26 that was great, but redundancy meant that had to move on, I am hoping to acquire a 'slightly' later replacement. A 1972 manufactured (but registered in 1973) R60/5 - in the monza blue.

It appears generally standard...a few things that I spot that look like they have changed over the years - the silencers and exhausts - these seem to be stainless steel (not sure what make); the seat looks like it's been recovered; one fuel tap looks like the later sort; and the centre stand seems to be missing it's "tang". If anyone can spot anything else on this I should look at, or general advice - it will be gratefully received.

Yrs ago I had a R60/7 (with disc brake) and loved that - always fancied the 'drum brake' style. I know this has 4-speed vs. 5 on the /7 & its a SWB model too.

Hoping this 'original' but not 'concours' bike will be fun.

Regards

Mark

schrader7032 · Post by **schrader7032** » Thu Nov 25, 2010 10:43 am

Looks to generally be in good shape. If those are the original shocks (they look to be), they probably need to be replaced...you'll have to ride to be sure. The spark plug caps seem to be of the later type, from the /7 ear with 5k ohm internal resistance. Be sure that the plugs are non-resistor type...too much resistance in the circuit can degrade the performance. Not sure if that tank is original...this site shows a different tank:

http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/specpages/R60-5.htm

Other tanks are shown here:

http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/photopages/photosr60-5.htm

The R60/5 was known to ping. It needs to be tuned to within an inch of perfect to not ping. Electronic ignitions and installation of compression reducing base gaskets can help.

MHSILVERW · Post by **MHSILVERW** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 3:16 pm

I think in UK the 'toaster' tank and side panels were not universally popular when these /5's from 1972 were new. I think a lot of these were sold with the bigger 5 gal / 22 Litre petrol tank - so believe the tank on this at least might be original.

What plugs are recommended - would the leads be the same as on a 60/7 and the plugs for that being suitable?

Mark

MHSILVERW · Post by **MHSILVERW** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 3:20 pm

...and I suspect the seat was replaced / recovered. I know the earlier models had a different seat with two handles - but from some fuzzy pictures think the 'ribbing' on the later ones went 'long-ways' and not across the seat as seems to be the case here. Not sure if the original would have had the 'bmw emblem' on the back of the seat, just 'BMW' or even 'R60/5' or 'BMW R60/5'.

Still looking fwd to getting acquainted with the 'mid-size' twin.

Hope the 'pinking' on todays fuels isnt too bad. Any tips for this out there - riding style/additives/set-up?

Mark

schrader7032 · Post by **schrader7032** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 3:53 pm

Nothing really wrong with the later style high tension leads. Some change those out for a comparable set of NGK caps. I just like BMW's stuff. As for plugs, my Haynes manual says Bosch W5D1. NGK BP7ES is the cross to that:

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/tech ... a-y6dc.htm

The important thing is to make sure that the plug is non-resistor, especially if you have resistor caps which are the /7 style caps. Resistance from one cap to the other is important...should be 20-22Kohms. About 10-12K of that is the two coils...the other 10K is the two caps at 5K ohms each. You don't need anymore resistance in the plugs...it tends to reduce the efficiency of the combustion process.

I think you're right on the seat with the two handles...Ian Falloon's book shows just that. The book seems to indicate that the seat you show might be from a /6. Not sure, but the early /6 seats might have had seams running lengthwise in the seat and may had white piping.

It also says that the tanks were fitted with the Everbest petcock. From what I understand, these are a bear to keep working or not dripping...most likely people switch to the Karcoma which is on the right side of that tank.

As for the pinking, you'll need to run the highest octane you can get and keep the bike tuned. Three ways to deal with the problem: 1) base gaskets to lower the compression; 2) dual plugging; and 3) electronic ignition. The first two require some diving into the engine etc...wouldn't be my first choice. But an electronic ignition, like the Boyer, has a delayed advance curve which reduces the tendency to ping. Keeping the RPMs up and not lugging the motor is also the way to go. Not sure if any of the over-the-counter octane boosters would do the job, but certainly worth a try.

R.D.Green · Post by **R.D.Green** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 5:40 pm

Mark - - Nice looking bike. I have a soft spot for the R60/5 having bought one new in 1971. Still have it, still ride it, and still find it very satisfying and a sweet ride. Back in the day, my wife and I toured all over upstate New York, the Adirondacks, and New England on it. Over the years, I've had to replace the pushrod tube seals, main seal, clutch, cables, starter switch, and other "expendables". I've also re-built the carbs. I agree with all of the warnings about "pinking". You don't want that and such things as electronic ignition and compression reducing gaskets can be used. I've never done those things, however, and I have no pinking. I do keep the bike as perfectly tuned as I can and I do use the highest octane fuel I can find which, admittedly, is not what we had back in the seventies. I've had no luck with octane "boosters" when I did get a little pinking in the past and have never found them to be a substitute for setting the bike up correctly. The only things that have ever stranded me on that bike have been a dead battery (close to home) and a bad condensor (I've carried a spare since then). As for the tank - - the smaller (non-toaster) version, the toaster version, and the "touring" version each had their critics. If memory serves, the large tank was offered as an option in the years when the /5 series came with the 4.0 tank as standard. Personally, I never found the touring tank to be awkward looking or ungainly as some of the critics did way back when. As mentioned, there are some bits on the blue bike that are not original. If this is a "U.S" bike, the bars have been swapped out at some point. The handgrips also. No big deal. Go to the /5 United website for lots of /5 info and also have a look at the bikes on that site for comparison.

Richard

MHSILVERW · Post by **MHSILVERW** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:01 pm

I stubled across a youtube video where Fred Tausch who I gather was quite renowned in the US and had a 600000mile R60/5.

It seems in this clip he had altered the neddle jet position and this left him with no 'pinking'. What's the std position from the bottom notch up on these-can anyone tell me should I delve in the carbs on a tuneup.

Oh that youtube piece is here:-

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... 9837810008#

Regards

Mark

schrader7032 · Post by **schrader7032** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:37 pm

According to the Bing book, the R60/5 clip position is #3 which is measured from the top or blunt end of the needle. IIRC, the needle has 4 positions, so #3 would be getting richer because more or the needle is pulled up and out of the needle jet quicker for a given throttle position.

MHSILVERW · Post by **MHSILVERW** » Mon Dec 13, 2010 1:42 pm

Thx.

Mark

PS - what's the 'bing' book - sounds like it could be quite useful.

schrader7032 · Post by **schrader7032** » Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:44 pm

Bing book or manual:

http://www.bingcarburetor.com/manual.html