R60/2 Spark Plugs

oligee7275 · Post by **oligee7275** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 10:49 pm

Hey RD,
The short answer is that there will no ill effect.
The difference between the B8ES and the BP8ES is the P stands for Projected insulator. That plug will stay warmer and cleaner at low speeds and won't get as hot as the loads go up. There is nothing about this plug that would effect cold starting better than the B8ES but if it works keep using it. Also, you're cold starting technique might be the culprit. My 1959 R60 is sensitive to how you start it cold. (Turn on fuel, tickle each carb for a 3-4 count, crack the throttle open just off idle and kick. Works every time.)
Hope this helps,
Dean

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/tech/ ... berkey.pdf

R.D.Green · Post by **R.D.Green** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:41 am

Dean - - Thanks. I knew what the "P" stood for and was a little concerned that the projected insulator might somehow cause some harm by being hotter, if only marginally. Rick Jones recommended the plug so I wasn't too worried. More info never hurts, though.

Concerning the starting procedure: The best method I have come up with on this machine is to turn on the fuel; hold the throttle open; kick through twice; close the throttle; turn on ignition; kick to start. I was having the most trouble when I used the ticklers. I talked to Vech about this and his advice was to keep my hands off the ticklers. This seems contrary to what most people do but it works.

Richard

schrader7032 · Post by **schrader7032** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:57 am

It's interesting that your method doesn't touch the ticklers and holds the throttle open during the "priming" stage. It seems to indicate that your bike has a tendency to flood easily. On my bike, I use the ticklers for 3-5 counts, then kick the bike through with throttle completely closed. My understanding is that this helps pull the fuel-air mixture into the combustion chamber. Then I turn the ignition on, go to about 1/4 throttle, and give it a good kick. It usually starts first or second kick.

Warm starting turned out to be a new learning experience on my recent trip to Vech's and back. What seems to work now is the opposite of above. I don't touch the ticklers or petcock. I kick the bike through maybe 5-6 times with throttle wide open. This should clear the combustion chamber. Then, with ignition on and not touching the throttle, I can usually get it to rumble to life in one or two kicks and then I turn the gas on and feed a little throttle.

I liked to wear myself out trying to figure out the new warm start procedure. My riding partner had a few ideas and we finally figured it out.

Kurt in S.A.

R.D.Green · Post by **R.D.Green** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 3:09 pm

Yeah, I do think she is prone to flooding. Your hot start drill is interesting. I need to remember it. Right now, mine will re-start when hot by just kicking with ignition. No pre-kicking, no throttle.

When I'm satisfied with the drill over a longer period of time, I may have it tatooed to my palm....

VBMWMO · Post by **VBMWMO** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:52 pm

Machine is a 1969 R60/2 with 135 pounds on both sides. New magneto coil, plug wires, condensor. Very well sorted out in terms of timing, carb set up, synchchronizing, magneto adjustment. Still a hard starter when cold. Decent when hot but stubborn when cold. Was running NGK B8ES plugs with no improvement. Switched to NGK BP8ES and she immediately began starting on first kick when cold. Would there be any detrimental effects associated with these plugs in the long term? Thanks for any advice....