More questions regarding engine removal:

schrader7032 · Post by **schrader7032** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 3:59 pm

Micha -

I'll take a stab and assume it's the same as the /2...

1. There's a bolt right where the tranny-end of the cable goes to the tranny. That bolt has to be completely taken out. Once it's out, then the cable should come straight up. From Duane's site:

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/trans/speedobolt.JPG

2. There is no shortest way...there's only one way! The output flange of the tranny and the driveshaft are connected by four bolts. You can see one of the holes in the flange in the above picture. You'll need to remove the clamp around the front of the rubber boot. Peel or slide the boot back to see the four bolts. It's 10mm...a good 12-point wrench should be good enough to get in there...it's a tight fit. Step on the foot brake and then loosen the four bolts. Rotate around as needed.

Kurt in S.A.

Allan.Atherton · Post by **Allan.Atherton** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 4:33 pm

Micha - I'll take a stab and assume it's the same as the /2... The output flange of the tranny and the driveshaft are connected by four bolts...
I think he has an R51/3 with plunger suspension:
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/photos/photoph ... engine.JPG
I think they use a dry Hardy disk coupling like the singles, rather than universal joint. I don't know how they come apart.

Darryl.Richman · Post by **Darryl.Richman** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 5:53 pm

Allan's right, the plunger frame bikes work differently back there.

1. Remove the rear wheel.
2. Remove the hex shaped top cap from the right side plunger.
3. Loosen the pinch bolts top and bottom on the plunger unit.
4. Move the rubber bung forward on the driveshaft, then remove the bell cover from the front of the final drive and move it past the U joint underneath. It has a LEFT HANDED THREAD.
5. Pivot the final drive on the plunger so that the nose points inward. This will bend the U joint and pull the driveshaft and Hardy disk backwards off of the transmission output flange.

This should give you adequate clearance to remove the transmission.

Micha · Post by **Micha** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 12:40 am

Thanks Darryl. You saved me a lot of "learn it by yourself the hard way". Regarding the last line (#5): What do you mean by "so that the nose points inward"? Which nose? I understood that I should "play" and rotate the whole rear drive on the plunger. Am I right?
Thank you again. Micha.

Darryl.Richman · Post by **Darryl.Richman** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 12:58 am

Yes, you need to push on the front of the final drive, where the U-joint attaches, so that it pivots inward to where the rear wheel would normally be.

VBMWMO · Post by **VBMWMO** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:52 pm

1. How do I disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission box? There's a small bolt beneath the intake of this cable to the box casting; will opening this bolt release the cable? Will I be able to just pull it out?
2. How do I disconnect the tranny from the drive shaft? What is the shortest way?
Thanks a lot in advance, Michael.