R60/2 best place to source a centrifugal advance unit

[fossilfuel]

Hi all,

Happy Eclipse week! I want to purchase a new centrifugal advance unit for my 1968 r60/2. I looked at many threads and see that there has been some concern about the quality of replacement units. I could not find a recent recommendation for where to buy problem-free one.

Where can/should I get one now-a-days?

Vintage BMW (Mike Benoit) seems to have the best price at $229. EME has Enduralast for $255. And there are others....

Also, I took mine apart and the pins, springs and weights seem to be in really good condition. My issues just seems to be differential timing from lobe wear....so in theory, I could keep my well made original parts and just swap in a new center (if the reproductions fit the original ?) I don't mind paying for a whole new unit just to get new lobes if that will piece together a solid new/old hybrid unit

Any guidance would be appreciated.


-mark in austin

[808Airhead]

How “off” is your timing? You can try to carefully re-profile the lobe that is too advanced . Have you tried to “set it” by using the brass drift on the center bolt technique? Every advancer seems to have a little bit of differential timing, but hitting the bolt CAREFULLY on the “advanced” side works, it resets the taper fit and can get them perfectly synched. Using this method I have gotten them to be less than 1mm off.

[DIS295]

Last year I purchased a "new" auto advance unit and it was about 3 degrees off diff-wise. The 8oz ball pein wasn't doing it, so I carefully attacked the opening ramp on one side with 600 paper backed by a flat file(the file was solely to enable me to be parralel). After about on hour of abrade, test, abrade i got it within less than a degree.

[weh8127]

You may find this thread helpful, especially James' advance rebuild video. I bought my new advance from Mike B. Everything is right on now but I don't put on the mileage now that I would have years ago.

viewtopic.php?t=44682

[808Airhead]

There is a nice advancer on eBay right now, $125.00

[fossilfuel]

Thanks Guys!

Right now, one side is spot on at the 'S line' on the flywheel and the other side is just below the S...so about an inch-ish on the flywheel, which I think is way outside the acceptable differential range. I also have one header blue-er than the other (left side when sitting on the bike).

I am reluctant to take a hammer to the shafts. I read somewhere where the author strongly recommends AGAINST it. My luck with such things has not always been good

I have seen the used advance on e-bay. Tempting, but since the lobes are my main issue, I *think* new is the way to go.

Thanks for the links to the other threads and the rebuild video--its first I've seen of static timing in the advance position. I will try that next to see if the delta is the same as on the S mark.

I think I am hearing Mike Benoit replacement unit is acceptable...I don't plan to ride the bike a ton...just a coffee getter for me.

I may go for a Pentacom plate as well. Fiddling with the timing --with it moving every time I tighten the screws --has been frustrating.

I do have a new emerald island coil, 0 Ohm wires and plug caps....so I think i am close to getting sorted

-mark in austin (fossilfuel)

[schrader7032]

You would not be taking a hammer to the shafts. You would simply be lightly tapping on the end of the bolt that holds the advance unit onto the taper of the camshaft. This repositions the rotor...it sits on the a tapered fit. This procedure was recommended by Vech...can't get a higher recommendation than that.

[FL54]

As Vech stated “you’re not driving nails here.” I was reluctant at first to take a hammer to the old girl but got the timing very close with that technique. My R50/2 came with a pentecom plate and it is very easy to time with it. Like an old Chevy.

[fossilfuel]

Thanks guys....i will re-read Duane's instructions on this.

[Slash2]

I think this whole differential timing mumbo jumbo is for the most part, a great big nothing burger.