Upper inner race "should" just tap down onto the "interference fit" area on the upper part of the stem. Mine will not go down far enough with the hook spanner or by tapping a punch or by tapping a socket / driver. Freezing the stem does not get me enough clearance. These are the Swiss bearings from Euro MotoElectrics.
I have read some postings that indicate some of the stems were out of tolerance and had to be milled down a few thousandths. I'm pausing for a day or two while I double check all of my work and assumptions, and so here I am looking for anything I might not have been aware of.
My questions are:
Have you run into this situation or are you familiar with it?
I have never heard of the steering head being out of tolerance. There should be NO reason to mill unless there is damage.
To be brutally honest, did you use the proper tool to remove the old races? They are difficult to properly remove without the proper puller.
Are you sure when you removed the old ones you didn't damage the head. A burr could hang up the fit of the new race.
Are you sure you have the right bearings and races?
Tapping with a punch and hammer isn't a good idea. The race has to be inserted evenly with absolutely even pressure. While tapping with a hammer and punch on other races and seals may work, 99% of the time, it won't on the head races.
These are two bearings and races that have to be properly installed or issues in handling can arise.
Sorry I am being blunt, but if you don't have the proper tools you are not going to have an easy time.
St.
All of the items mentioned are exactly what I was hoping to hear.
The bike is a 1974 R75/6. The same steering stem is used on many later models.
The outer races were pulled with a Kukko puller I rented from Hans at BMWHUCKY.COM ($10 rent / $100 deposit).
Anyway, they are in as of last night. A little boldness did the trick. I re-checked the outer racer installation using CycleWorks install tool to ensure they were in and flush. Put the steering stem on the bench - the bearing seat areas are clear when you look for them. I decided to knock the bearing down with the CycleWorks driver tool - the bearing was inverted so I could use the puller to get it back off. I figured one good trip up and down the stem might set things right, and it did. Reinstall on the bike using the driver went as expected.
I assume the reason for the bearing seat areas is to keep the inner ring fixed so the rollers can roll around it without the whole bearing spinning - same principle as the wheel hubs.
Hello Kevin, I am happy you got things together, I am sorry I was abrupt in my reply. LOL, I learned the very hard way to change these bearings. Luckily I had access to a guru nearby with tools I could borrow. LOL, having the proper tools makes it a snap to change them.
LOL I forgot to ask if you had powder coated the frame and may have not masked off the steering head area, seems you did and that was a good thing you did. Powder coat in the area makes it impossible to install the races, and it is a real bear to get it out of the area to bare metal. Give yourself a bravo for not making that mistake, LOL.
FYI after reassembly ride the bike for a good number of miles then recheck adjustment. Sometimes it take the bearings and such time to "settle in". Not a terrible issue but, could be.
Same issue with wheel bearings except in this case the race takes a beating rather than the frame head. These bearings don't really spin so much. This beating is why worn out bearings get "notchy" when they go bad. Good luck St,
