Oil Pan Leakage

[rockersbmw@gmail.com]

Hi Guys



My "S" is again having some leakage at the left side of the oil pan
gasket/seem. When I bought the bike a few years back, it had leakage. I
removed the pan and cleaned the mating surfaces and installed a new OEM
gasket and torqued per specs. Was good, but is now seeping again. Tried a
little more torque on the bolts, but no improvement.



Any thoughts? Should I replace the gasket again with BMW OEM.or has anyone
had better success with other materials?



This article doesn't recommend silicone.

https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/pangasket.htm



Thanks

Bob



PS - I may try hint #6A in the suspect locations first.

HINT #6A: There have been instances of annoying leaks from the pan bolt
located below the oil canister area. Use NON-hardening version of Permatex
Form-A-Gasket on that bolt's threads and on the bolt washer.

["Robert Fleischer dba Fleischer's Service"]

The LEFT side of the pan is not where the oil canister bolt is.you'll be able to see leaks
there by the dirt collected.
'bum

["unclehomes"]

hey bob, keith here in oakland, long time no see. i'm trying to help frank cheap put a rear main seal in his beautiful 1975 R90S. it's part # 11 11 1 338 342, which is the same as the old one we pulled out(crankshaft blocked from moving forward of course). the new one from SJ BMW is very stiff and we gave up
for today due to time c

["Robert Fleischer dba Fleischer's Service"]

I'm in the midst of a half-drunken celebration, I should not be even at this computer; so it's going OFF after this;…so, this is off the top of my head (It's above my shoulders, I think).

See https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/flywheel ... arning.htm Article 60-2 I think, from memory.
Be sure to read everything in that article concerning that seal, and what the flywheel end looks like, as it changed at the end of 1975 …but got phased-in. Tapered edge, for instance.
The SI is clickable from that article too, as is the background of things, etc. The article covers both the early and later flywheels, and a LOT of etc.
The seal number is used for the new Teflon type seal.
BTW, old obsolete info was of heating the seal in oil, etc.

'bum

["unclehomes"]

thanks 'Bum. i'm on it. kk

["Richard Chawes2"]

Bob, As suspected you probably need to start again. The good news is you get to clean out your oil pan. The OEM gasket is fine. Use Hylomar or Honda Bond on the oil pan surface only. Tighten bolts in criss cross fashion like a car cylinder head. I guess it would’t hurt to check your oil pan for flat on a piece of glass and feeler gauges but I seriously doubt you would find anything warped or machined badly. Still, easy enough to do so you checked all the boxes. Never use silicone in an engine as little bits can break off and clog oil passages.

Richard Chawes

[rockersbmw@gmail.com]

I tried the non-harding Permatex on each pan bolt as someone suggested. Removed then one at a time.

Seems to have worked after 2 rides. My fingers are crossed.



This was an easier try then removing the pan again.



Thanks

Bob