Re: [R90SWORLDNET] Whiny tach on 1976 R90/6

["Terry Vrla"]

David - It might be the cable and you can try getting some thin oil to drip down into it. I don't know why BMW made the cable captive, but they did and it makes it difficult to lube. So do whatever you can to remedy.

We tend not to service our gauges until they're ready to blow up - mostly because it's difficult to say when exactly they need it. There's no published service interval that I know of. When I was a kid, the rule of thumb for watches was yearly and our gauges are similar to clocks - sort of. How long the lube lasts depends on use, disuse, temperature, humidity and other factors like damage from water and rust.

My guess would be that if the gauges haven't been serviced in ten or twenty years, it's probably due. The warning signs that the gauge needs attention is whining or screechy noises, a jerky needle, or erratic behavior. The tach gets a little more of a workout, so it tends to be the first to go.

For sure, do what you can to lube the cable and see if that fixes, but keep in mind if it doesn't, it's probably the tach meltdown isn't too far distant. I bought a true 14K mile /5 about 17 years ago and rode it home. Within about 500 miles both gauges started screeching, jerking wildly, then melted down. If I had disconnected the cables when they first started complaining, I would have had some like-new gauges once they were serviced. A cleaning and lube would have been enough to get them going again. But since I didn't, wanting the odometer for gas stops, and not bothering to disconnect the tach either, both died horribly deaths and needed rebuilding (rather than just a service) with a lot of new parts.

Terry (Wirespokes)



________________________________

["Gayle Murphy"]

FYI to group:

Speedo/tach clean/repair source: Speedometer Service Co. 5801 W Villard Ave. Milwaukee,Wisconsin. 53218. Ph. 414-463-6660.

Old school, mom and pop business since 1932. Had them clean/lube tach and clean/lube and calibrate my speedo last summer. One day turnaround. Smooth as silk. Like New. Very reasonable. $280 inc.tax. I live six miles from the

shop. May have something to do with the quick service.

Gayle Murphy

In almost springtime Milwaukee,Wis. Home of the Greek Freak.

["Richard Chawes2"]

I have found that thin graphite oil like the type for locks works great. Thin enough to drip all the way down and leaves graphite behind for lube. Terry(below) also does this service work.

Richard Chawes

["Craig Freeman"]

I'm getting similar noises from my tach. It's been 30 years since it was last lubed.

Can anyone recommend any cleaning and lubricating products that might be available in New Zealand?

BTW I've heard that Terry does excellent work servicing and repairing these instruments but shipping mine from NZ isn't practical.

Thanks
Craig Freeman

["Donald Walter"]

My tach is also clattering. Attempted cable lube unsuccessful at resolving. Outer cable covering is also dinged and the timing cover grommet is toast so I'll replace these and proceed with removing the cluster to get it serviced.
I see the heads of 3 bolts below the cluster. I assume I disconnect the speedo and tach cables, remove the 3 bolts and go from there. There must be an electrical/warning light disconnect somewhere in the mix. Hopefully its a quick disconnect type.
Thanks for the education and resource info!

["Robert Merrell"]

Shop manuals are available online. Worth pursuing. The three bolts just need to be loosened and pull up the cluster. The electrical connection is a larger than you'd expect plug secured by a tiny little screw that is easily lost. It's also not real easy to get this plug in or out.

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>
________________________________

["Donald Walter"]

I got the Repair Manual pdf from the Vintage BMW website earlier and subsequently joined the organization. Much more relevant to me now than the MOA.
Cluster, tach cable & grommet removed. Will send cluster in for service. Thanks.

["Richard Chawes2"]

To all those removing clusters. The three 10mm bolts do not need to come all the way out,
As there are slots in the metal bracket. Just loosen them a few turns. Gently lift the cluster and with a very small Phillips remove the small screw in the rubber plug and stick to a magnet or a piece of tape and set aside. Now carefully rock the plug back and forth as you pull out. It is ok to put a small flat screw driver under an edge to get it started. You can also use WD-40 as a lubricant. Why all this care? Well the small pins that are in the cluster are very delicate and are often corroded onto the plugs. It is possible to rip a pin out. If it does not come at first, try some more lubricant and let it soak in.
I’m not saying this happens in every case, many come right out.
Re assemble with electrical conducting grease on the pins and sides or rubber plug.
Also grease the threads of the tach and speedo cable connections for future ease. No need to crank these down really tight also.

Richard Chawes

["Donald Walter"]

Great advice, thanks all.
Now I need to find a 13mm wrench of the style to drain fork oil while allowing 4mm hex to hold damper rod. Some kind of offset box wrench. I'll bet someone here knows what its called.

["Donald Walter"]

Offset box wrench was the right term.