How can I prime with oil after engine flush?

[RoadsNV]

hello! I am a brand new member. I found one article pertaining to a similar situation, but i think i need more info. So here ya go... It's a bit of a story, but i figured i get the details out of the way with a full story first, and not 50 questions to drag it out of me.
I recently purchased a 1980 r65. It had been garaged and unridden for 18 years the guy said. It had fresh gas and clean oil. It started and ran. We loaded it on a truck and i brought it home.
I rode it about 20 miles. It ran fine, but idled rough below 1100rpm. I put in a tankfull of ethanol-free gas and about 3oz of Berrymans (similar to Seafoam), and road it another 10 miles or so to get the new fuel into and through the carbs. I then let it sit for a couple days with the fuel/berrymans in the carbs. I then rode it about 10 miles or so, and checked the idle. It idled much better, good down to around 850-900rpm. I then road it another 50 miles or so. Over the next few days i ordered some tires and got my wheels off to take to the shop for the tires and new tubes etc.
I didn't have a proper motorcycle jack. I had the bike up with a floor jack and some blocks of wood. The bike tipped forward and the cylinders flooded with gas. I didn't know they were flooded, and after I leveled the bike, I tried to start it. It was like it was locked up. i was scratching my head and trying to figure out what had happened. That's when I noticed that i had left the fuel on. I figured out in short order that the cylinders were flooded. I let it sit for a couple more days to let the fuel drain down.
While waiting for the tires, I scored a proper motorcycle jack in good condition at a garage sale for US$20! I got it under the bike and level and let sit for a couple more days. Then i turned over the engine a few short times and drained the crankcase of about a gallon and a half of gas/oil.
I now have several filters (some straight and some bendy. I found it had a bendy in it), 3 sets of oil change gaskets, and 10 quarts of proper oil. I figured I'd run one or two oil changes through it to flush it out good.
This is where my question finally comes in...
Is there a way to prime the oil system without turning the engine over? I ask this because growing up with Chevy V8s, we'd cut off a long screwdriver and put it in a drill. Then pull the distributer out and put the screw driver in the distributer slot and run the drill. this would force the oil pump and prime the entire oil system before ever turning the engine over. I watched a couple videos of guys just pour oil or Marvel Mystery Oil into the spark plug holes, but this seemed like a 25% solution to priming the entire system. I hoping there is a better way.
Any advice will be considered and appreciated. I have put over 50,000 miles on my '97 Funduro, but I have never dealt with these airheads before.

[schrader7032]

Welcome! When you finally get there, shoot for a higher idle than something below 1000 RPM. You want to make sure you get good oil splash to the main bearings, etc., and it's better around 1100-1200 or so.

I honestly can't think of a good way to prime the system with oil without turning the engine over. I believe the oil pump is driven off the engine. Plus getting access to it is really difficult.

I'd do this...it's what I do whenever I change the oil/filter on my /7. I drop the float bowls with the petcocks off. I think crank the starter until I see the oil light go out. At that point, I know the oil has been moved through the system.

[srankin]

Sorry Kurt, but I disagree with idle speed, I have always set mine for 500 to 600RPM. But I won't argue.

As for priming the system, as Kurt says just crank it over until the oil pressure light goes out, it doesn't take long for that to happen. Sorry I have never timed it, maybe four or five seconds? St.

[RoadsNV]

Thank you both for these answers. looks like you guys have been around here for awhile with good experience and knowledge to share.
I'll trust this method that you both expressed and concurred upon.
Thanks for the comments about idle speed too. This was on my mind as well because at idle around 900rpm the Alternator light comes on but goes out around 1000rpm.
One other thing I forgot to ask was, Bendy vs Straight oil filter, which is better or pros and cons?

[schrader7032]

I've moved on from the straight filter. I think the bendy one is better because of the metal frame on the ends that meet in the middle when installed. Because of the frame, the tendency for the filter to collapse is reduced because the unsupported length of the filter area is reduced.

[srankin]

I concur with Kurt on the filter. I have had a few cases in cold weather of collapsed straight filters.

Either will work, but don't skimp on price, I have been using the Mahle? brand from EME for a bit now. The bending ones because they are the only ones I can get in now with guard bars on the bike.

The MOST important thing to remember is to change the O-ring and metal shim. Be VERY certain they are in the proper place when you put the cover on. I either use grease or super glue (a couple of dots) to hold everything in place while I line the cover up and install the bolts. St.

[cbclemmens]

Roads:

After you have changed the oil, pull the spark plugs so the engine doesn't have to work against compression. Then turn it over until the oil light goes off and a few seconds more just to be sure. Then put the plugs back in and start it. You should be fine.

If you ever do this again, pull the plugs ang crank it over, to pump the gas out of the cylinders, and change the oil. You won't have to wait to get it going.

Craig

[RoadsNV]

Wow! You guys are great! Thank you so much for the tips and insight. I feel so much better about getting started to put everything back together tomorrow. I have a couple of straight filters and I am going to use them up first for the initial oil change to just run through the system to purge the gas and any carbon or build-up that was brought loose and cleaned out by the gas soaking. I have one each Mahle and Wix bendy filters that I will use for normal duration after that.
So, my plan is to use my new wheel bearing greaser from the UK to grease up the wheel bearings, and then get the wheels back on. Then I can put it up on the frame stand and drop the oil pan for a clean-up and a look-see for any potential clues to any other problems. I already ordered and received a couple new pan gaskets too. Then I'll do the one or two flushing oil changes and see if I caused any mechanical damage with this mishap, or if I lucked out and she runs stronger than before. Then I'll change the gearbox and driveline and hub oils too. Then, finally, I will get to riding again and get to the DMV for inspection, paperwork, and a new plate! Wish me luck! I hope to be sharing stories of success and pics from these beautiful roads of Northern Nevada and beyond before the snow comes.

[drpetemurray]

Roads:

After you have changed the oil, pull the spark plugs so the engine doesn't have to work against compression. Then turn it over until the oil light goes off and a few seconds more just to be sure. Then put the plugs back in and start it. You should be fine.

If you ever do this again, pull the plugs ang crank it over, to pump the gas out of the cylinders, and change the oil. You won't have to wait to get it going.

Craig

I will also add, lay the grounded plugs on the cylinder then crank over at 3-5 second intervals for oil flow. Idle speed either a flickering Gen light or light out should be good for oil flow at idle. Snowbum suggests 1000-1100 idle for proper cam chain lube.

[srankin]

IF you have the BMW electronic ignition system, make darned sure if you pull the spark plugs out to crank it over they are grounded! Failure to do so can pop the ignition module.

I am not certain if you really need to do so much draining and refilling as you are? Any trace of gas will go out the vent as the bike warms up.

You have gotten rid of the gas that would dilute the oil and cause problems. Anyway, that is my thinking, others may think different. St.