R60/5 won’t start has spark

[SharkAttackTime]

Hey everyone been a long time.

A little background
Have had my 1970 r60/5 for close to 10 years never was a daily rider had a 74 cb750 I rebuilt that I rode more often. I moved to MT for the summer as a private chef so decide to bring the old airhead with me, I had some charging issues that I sorted out when I first got here and felt I was finally in a good spot to ride longer distances on the weekends. So I took the bike to Bozeman about 1.5 hrs away had no issues on the ride until I got to town and it started dying at lights but would start right back up. So I decided to try and make it back home, in the end i did make it but the issue slowly got worse started to run really bad no power, sluggish, jerky and would die if stopped.
But the real mystery to me is that the next day I tried to work on it thinking maybe bad gas, carburetor dirty etc but now it won’t start at all still turns over, has spark but won’t start. I’m still trying to investigate and go through the maintenance items but would love any help or ideas to start

What I’ve done
- new spark plugs and wires
- cleaned carburetors
- emptied gas tank and cleaned filters
- added new gas
- checked battery seems to be healthy

What it has
- it’s got a dynatek Dyna III
- fairly new coils (still need to test)

[schrader7032]

How about the valve clearances? Not running well at low RPMs points to valve clearances that have closed up. Could be issues with timing. I have a Dyna III on my /7 and works fine, but you may need to recheck your timing also.

[srankin]

Check valves first for proper clearance. Next check ignition timing, luckily you don't have points to mess with. Maybe Kurt can find the procedure for static timing check? There is a way to do so, I have never done it so I can't help. Online at Snowbum's site or perhaps another someone will have a write up or video.

I see you changed gas, and cleaned the carbs. Pull a float bowl off and check to see if you have good fuel flow.

How long ago since or have you rebuilt the carbs and choke assembly? You have been riding the bike on occasion so it has not been sitting along time with old gas. No mice in the air cleaner.

Yeah, check the valves and timing, good luck. St

[SharkAttackTime]

Another quick question while doing the valve clearance I check the right side at OT seems at spce did a full turn on motor back to OT to check the other side and there is zero movement.. am I doing something wrong or could they really be that fare off to have zero clearance?

[schrader7032]

The full turn from one side OT to the other side OT is correct. But you must be sure you start correctly. I work on the left side first with the valve cover off. I put the bike in high gear and use the rear wheel to turn the engine over. When you see the intake valve fully open and begin to close, you are then on the compression stroke. Move to the left side of the bike and bump the rear wheel while watching for OT in the window. Once there, set the clearances to 0.15/0.20mm intake/exhaust. Then rotate the engine one full turn to see OT again...right side should be ready to set. Or you can remove the right valve cover and again watch the intake valve to see it open then close...you're beginning the compression stroke. Once you bump the engine to OT, set the valves on the right side. You could rotate the engine 360 again, check your work on the left side; another 360 and recheck work on the right side.

[SharkAttackTime]

Thanks. Yeah I’m not sure how the bike could have run with zero clearance seems insane to me. I did exactly what your saying had clearance on the right side had both covers off made one full turn and right side is closed and so is left. Guess I’ll be fixing that.

[cbclemmens]

Engines need fuel, compression, spark and timing, in order to run. Nobody mentioned doing a compression check. (Valves set too tight can give you low compression, as can bad valves and bad rings.)

Craig

[SharkAttackTime]

Totally I’m reaching for the simple answers first really hoping it’s not rings or worse. I need to see if I can find a compression test out here because mine is back in OR

[srankin]

LOL, you would be surprised at how many people tear their carburetors apart first only to find mis adjusted valves or timing is the problem.

Oh, as for setting valves it takes a couple of times to get used to it or at least it did for me. Just think, you can remember every 15,000 miles, LOL.

I just remembered a failure on one of the bikes in my friend's shop, the wire between the coils corroded and broke. Also, refresh my memory does a Dyna III have the condenser in the system?

You have spark, but is it at the right spot? I am hoping your Dyna isn't flubbed up?

[SharkAttackTime]

Ok another fun filled day of lots of work and no good results. I got the valves set did a oil change just because. no change when trying to fire it up so I did a compression test.. seems like it could be the bad news only could get both sides up to 90 psi with 6 kicks and also managed to strip the nut that holds the “points” on yay for me guess I need to go shopping

I’m lost as to what else it could be other then just the rings and pistons just seems strange how it happened but I guess it’s a 53 year old bike

I did mess with the timing just to see if I could get it fired and then you the light to dial it in but no luck