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Fly wheel marks?
Fly wheel marks?
- schrader7032
- Posts: 9065
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
- Location: San Antonio, TX
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Re: Fly wheel marks?
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Re: Fly wheel marks?
How about a picture? I can't remember to have seen this ever before.
Re: Fly wheel marks?
- schrader7032
- Posts: 9065
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
- Location: San Antonio, TX
- Has thanked: 3 times
- Been thanked: 36 times
Re: Fly wheel marks?
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Re: Fly wheel marks?
- therealkennyboy
- Posts: 93
- Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2022 5:44 pm
- Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
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Re: Fly wheel marks?
The SZ mark is used when installing the magneto: Didn't see anything in the Owner's Manual, but I skimmed it pretty quickly.
Scottsdale, AZ, USA
1960 R60 (currently), 1974 R75/6 (past), 1981 R100CS (currently), 1984 R100RS (past), 1989 K100RS (past)
Re: Fly wheel marks?
- vechorik1373
- Posts: 268
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
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Re: Fly wheel marks?
OT as you should know by now, is TOP DEAD center, and is marked OT so you can set the valves. It has no other function.
Remember, you can set the valve clearance only on the cylinder that is at OT on the compression stroke.
You must turn the engine one revolution (360 degrees) to set the valves on the other cylinder.
The SZ mark (later bikes are just marked with an "S") is the idle timing mark, which is where one static times the bike.
To do so, if all you have is an ohm meter (which will do the job) is to temporary disconnect the wire from the coil from the points, and attach one lead of the ohm meter to the little nut and bolt on the points base, and the other lead to ground, anywhere.
The coil fires, when the points crack open. The Ohm meter will tell you EXACTLY when this happens. You must turn the engine VERY slowly and have the meter where you can watch the flywheel and the meter at the same time. You must get it to break the points when the SZ mark comes up dead even with the stationary mark cut into the front of the viewing window of the crankcase. To check for differential timing (one cylinder firing ahead or behind the other) turn the engine 360 degrees, and see where the ohm meter indicates that the points opened. Ideally it should show the points opening exactly at the SZ mark the second time. If it does not the ignition has differential timing. The severity of this condition will be indicated by HOW MUCH distance on the flywheel from opening the points the first time at SZ and where it opened the points the second time around. BMW allowed only 3 degrees difference. That is roughly 1/8 of an inch.
The more differential timing you have, the more poorly it will run, and the cylinder that is most advanced will run hotter, and you will notice that the header pipe is blue a lot further down on one side than the other.
Technical Adviser, Former owner, Bench Mark Works
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