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Stripped Drain Plug Woes - Second Update
Stripped Drain Plug Woes - Second Update
So I’m faced with a few decisions.
1. Attempt to drill it out on the bike, flush the shaft with kerosene to hopefully remove all the bits of aluminum and then install a helicoil. $80 - Fast
2. Buy the tools to remove the pinion nut and partially tear the FD down to allow the work to be done on the bench and eliminate the potential for contamination from any leftover bits of metal. Finding a way to secure the FD to employ a drill press will be tricky. $200-$300 A week or 2.
3. Send the FD out to Ande @ Barrington to rebuild, replace the large ring gear bearing, and the pinion double row ball bearing, fresh seals and of course drill, tap and timesert the drain threads. $500-$1500? 2-3 weeks at best.
If I elect 2 or 3 I’m faced with the bike being non-op for some of the last beautiful riding weeks of autumn which is a real drag after spending nearly a year restoring this motorcycle to service but so it goes. I guess I can slum it on my R69S or another of my older bikes in the meantime.
Please give your honest input. Of course cost/time is a factor but I’m also the sort of mechanic/rider who prefers to do it right and do it once. The FD isn’t currently leaking so the current seals seem ok but I do have a very minor tick of play which would likely be resolved with the replacement of those bearings.
Thanks!
- schrader7032
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Re: Stripped Drain Plug Woes
Maybe something simple until you can lay the bike up for a longer duration?
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Re: Stripped Drain Plug Woes
I had considered this sort of temporary fix to get me through the end of the riding season and assume it would be sufficient to keep the 150cc’s inside the housing until a more thorough fix could be accomplished. One consideration that I’m concerned with is whether or not any of the threads are already floating around inside the housing. I was able to extract several threads and while gravity is on my side there’s really no way to know what’s inside without getting in there.
If I was on a trip this sort of “bandaid” might be easily justified where as the only reason to keep from properly fixing it now is my general desire to continue riding until the weather turns fully toward winter.
Chris
- schrader7032
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Re: Stripped Drain Plug Woes
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Re: Stripped Drain Plug Woes
The design of these bolts is altogether baffling to me. A couple of very coarse threads is all that’s there to grab. I can’t think of any reason a fine thread wouldn’t be far superior.
Thoughts?
See attached photos.
- schrader7032
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Re: Stripped Drain Plug Woes
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Re: Stripped Drain Plug Woes
Looking at photos of the internals there is barely any margin for error without at least removing the pinion nut and driveshaft coupler. Sounds like option 1. is out.
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- malmac
- Posts: 796
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Re: Stripped Drain Plug Woes
Take the back wheel off.
Remove the final drive.
If you don't want to do it your self, take the final drive to a machinist who will insert a new thread.
There are several options. There is an option that inserts a metal sleeve and then three triangular pins are driven down to retain the insert.
https://www.nei.com.au/product/kipp-thr ... rts-k0398/
There seems to be room for this approach and there are probably others that are as good or even better.
Clean out the swarf, new gasket probably. Its all back together in a a couple of days max if you can get your local machinist to do it straight off.
My two bob's worth.
Mal
Toowoomba- Australia
Re: Stripped Drain Plug Woes
This sounds great but the question is where. One of my first moves was to go hunting for a replacement but all I came up with was higher mileage units in mystery condition which sounds like just trading one problem for another.Jim D 5112 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 14, 2022 8:53 pmFind a used low mileage final drive and just replace it.