Long-storage r75/5 refurbishment

[Helion42]

I recently acquired a granada red '73 R75/5 from my grandma's garage, it belonged to her housemate John who bought the bike new and rode it very little. It has ~8500 on the odometer, never dropped and was well-maintained in its day. It was last registered in 1977, and was kept in a well-sealed garage for the most part, except for a couple of times he started it up in the 80's. The last time it ran was around 1990, and it has been sitting ever since. Grandma needed space in the garage, so I persuaded John to let me restore it.
I fell immediately in love with this bike, and have big plans for her. I've been into BMWs for quite some time, and am finishing up a restoration (or rather franken-engine build) of a beautiful '90 325is. I am, however, very new to BMW motorcycles.
Anyway, the engine rotates, trans makes shifting noises and diff. rotates cleanly (checked via kick lever, rolling). The plugs are in good shape, the only real problem was the carbs were full of varnish (I plan on checking the valve heads for the like). The only rust is surface spots on the spokes, pitted exhaust and a tiny spot on the inside of the rear fender. The battery was left unplugged, but it and the wires are very corroded. The headlight needs to be put back on.

I have not had a chance to do more than clean and reseal the gas tank and petcocks, and started cleaning the carbs. Does anyone know where I can find a comprehensive carb seal kit? All I've been seeing is out-of-date/out-of-stock parts lists and listings for sparse individual gaskets. What will need attention on a bike that hasn't run for ~20 years to get it to breathe again? I figure various dried-up engine, trans & diff. gaskets, oil flushing, check electrics and such, but what specifics should I run over? The bike was stored very well, so I can't imagine too much being wrong, except the owner doesn't remember anything about specifics on its storage, couldn't find the keys (ordered a new one) and could only find the bizarre windjammer fairing and headlight.
I need help finding touch-up paint (granada red 025), a reliable source for seals and tidbits, and a therapist for my bike addiction. Also, can anyone help identify if it's short of long wheel base?

Much thanks to all those that offer their knowledge.

[img=700x400]http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g44 ... AG0347.jpg[/img]

[Darryl.Richman]

Wow, what a cool bike to come into! You're going to be surprised when you see the "key".

Use the Resource Links button on the left sidebar to search for service providers and vendors.

Identifying if it's short or long wheelbase is easy. Look at the driveshaft tube on the right side swingarm. If there's a weld that adds a piece of tube about 2" long between the flare and the flange that the final drive bolts to, you have a LWB bike. If you don't see that, then you have a SWB. Looking at the battery in the picture, I'm guessing you have a LWB bike, but I can't tell for sure.

[schrader7032]

Cool...a Toaster Tank! My first thought is that you might have a LWB as the battery looks to be the big one. Then there's the tank side panels which were the '72 models, but you say the bike is a '73...hmmm. If it's a '73, then maybe the tank was added after the fact. Go to this site:

http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/chassispages/e ... sis750.htm

and find your VIN to see what month and year the bike was built. If it's a late model year (like sometime after April 1973), then it will be LWB. But as Darryl said, look for the 2-inch welded addition to the swing arm tube.

For the carb parts, I would get with Bing in Kansas and provide them the carb numbers, either 64/32/3-4 or 64/32/9-10, and they can fix you right up. You might also want to get the "book" which describes the carbs and provides part numbers, etc.

Another good source for all things Airheads is Snowbum's website at:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/techindex.htm

I warn you, that site can be addicting...or it can scare the crap out of you! Actually, Bob has quite a bit of very useful information...you might have to dig for it and wade through his verbosity!

Where are you located? Maybe there are some other like-minded owners nearby who can help out. It would be helpful to have someone help you along during these early stages.

As for waking the bike up, I'd do a full fluids change, filter changes, set the valve clearances, set the static timing, new battery, cables if they're that bad, tires...and then consider giving it a go. Other things that will likely need service, sooner rather than later, are greasing the steering stem bearings as well as the transmission input shaft splines and the rear wheel drive splines. If you don't get to the splines soon enough and you put too many miles on it without any lubricant, you can eat up the splines.

But you might want to consider getting her going and putting on a couple of hundred miles and see what else needs to be done. Maybe then you can see if you have leaks and where and then go from there.

Have fun!

[Helion42]

Thanks for the info; Haha I've seen the keys, I think whoever designed the ignition was stoned or something. John said that the only thing that wouldn't be original on the bike is the spark plugs and tyres, but I don't know about the tank panels bit. I really want the matching battery panels.

research on the carbs revealed that they're the later kinds that aren't bastards to tune. I found a carb kit for ~$80, and a local guy who'll rebuild them for $20. has anyone seen a cheaper carb kit?

Schrader-
I'm in central Salt Lake City, and have seen a couple of these bikes around. My uncle has a newer R100Gs, and I know one other guy who has a '79 thing. If you know anyone in the area, I'm always down to talk to another bike nut.
That's a pretty awesomely short fix-it list, I figured most of it and will probably do the splines before I run it. Do I need to replace the main seals and such, or will they be fine for the time being with some lubrication?

[schrader7032]

I wouldn't worry about any seals until they tell you they need attention when you see major leaks, etc. And some of the leaks might just "heal" themselves after some heat cycling and you get some fresh oil running through the system.

SLC...I just spent all last week up there; actually, up in the Layton-Ogden area. I have business with the USAF and was there to attend a series of meetings over 3 days. What I didn't need was that snow on Thursday! What fun!! I maybe be back up there in 2-3 months...maybe we can kick some tires.

I've been by the dealer there in Centerville...I don't know much about them...of course, they're all about the newer bikes. I stopped in there maybe a couple of years ago and was asking about finding a '50s vintage BMW. They couldn't help me much, but I recall someone bending their elbow at the service counter...my recollection is that they were aware of the older motorcycle community. Might want to stop in and say Hi if you haven't already.

[Helion42]

That's good news, I hate having to replace seals. And yeah, let me know if you're around SLC.

Today I pulled the valve covers, and it peed out a bunch of clean oil and revealed pristine-looking valves and rockers. My dad recommended spraying some silicone lube in the intakes and turning the pistons over a couple times to keep everything smooth for startup.
looked at the vin plates, manf. date is 9/72, and has matching engine and vin #s.
I tried to sort out some of the wiring muck in the headlight bucket, can't make much sense of it. I removed some spliced-in plug that might've gone to a fairing or something? Does this make sense to anyone?
When I have time I'm gonna have a good sit-down between this bike and some wiring diagrams.
[img=500x280]http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g44 ... 2753_n.jpg[/img]

I think I need to order a new headlight assembly, the fairing had a headlight installed in it, so I removed it and the rings and tried to see how it would attach to the bucket and couldn't figure it out. The light in the fairing was a sealed beam two-way bulb (3 prongs) and the diagrams on MAX BMW show it as a bulb, reflector, lens and bits. http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/ ... v=03192010
Will the sealed beam fit if I get the ring? or should I order the assembly from some fool on ebay

[Darryl.Richman]

No BMW uses a sealed beam headlight. Typically, the fairings come with their own headlight arrangements, and plug or hack into the bike's electrics inside the original headlight bucket. The original ring, lens, reflector and bulb are removed, the wiring connected, and the original bucket is usually sealed with a rubber cover that is taped in place.

[schrader7032]

What kind of fairing was it, do you know? I would be inclined to work with what you have rather than buy all new for the headlight bucket. I wouldn't think that figuring the wiring out would be that difficult...hopefully the colors are original except for anything the PO spliced in. You probably have a wiring diagram, but Snowbum has one as well as the 5united website.

As for bits and pieces, I understand that the headlight right is pretty pricey, at least for the /6. Notes that I've saved indicate that an old 1964 TR4 sports car rim will fit. Also, one from a 1950 Olds or Ford will work as well. After checking the parts fiche, the part numbers are different for the /5 and /6 protective ring, so that might not work for your /5.

[Helion42]

It's a Vetter Windjammer fairing, the headlight I pulled out of it sortof fits in the bucket, but is interfering with some rubber piece and wiring. Neither of the chrome rings that were in the fairing fit on the bucket in a way that would hold a headlight in, and the shallow bucket/reflector thing that was in the fairing won't fit either... If I saw the headlight assembly in person I'd be able to figure it out.
And yeah, the headlight assy. I found on eBay was $180. I shot him an offer of $150, he refused, and then the listing ended (or he pulled it?) and it was relisted for $230. wtf?

AHA I see it's a short wheel base model. goody.

Any information on moving the footpegs and shifter back to tighten up the riding position?