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Hoping to acquire a 'new' beemer - a R60/5
- Darryl.Richman
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Hoping to acquire a 'new' beemer - a R60/5
After experiences with an R26 that was great, but redundancy meant that had to move on, I am hoping to acquire a 'slightly' later replacement. A 1972 manufactured (but registered in 1973) R60/5 - in the monza blue.
It appears generally standard...a few things that I spot that look like they have changed over the years - the silencers and exhausts - these seem to be stainless steel (not sure what make); the seat looks like it's been recovered; one fuel tap looks like the later sort; and the centre stand seems to be missing it's "tang". If anyone can spot anything else on this I should look at, or general advice - it will be gratefully received.
Yrs ago I had a R60/7 (with disc brake) and loved that - always fancied the 'drum brake' style. I know this has 4-speed vs. 5 on the /7 & its a SWB model too.
Hoping this 'original' but not 'concours' bike will be fun.
Regards
Mark
- schrader7032
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Looks to generally be in good
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/specpages/R60-5.htm
Other tanks are shown here:
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/photopages/photosr60-5.htm
The R60/5 was known to ping. It needs to be tuned to within an inch of perfect to not ping. Electronic ignitions and installation of compression reducing base gaskets can help.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
I think in UK the 'toaster'
What plugs are recommended - would the leads be the same as on a 60/7 and the plugs for that being suitable?
Mark
...and I suspect the seat was
Still looking fwd to getting acquainted with the 'mid-size' twin.
Hope the 'pinking' on todays fuels isnt too bad. Any tips for this out there - riding style/additives/set-up?
Mark
- schrader7032
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Nothing really wrong with the
http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/tech ... a-y6dc.htm
The important thing is to make sure that the plug is non-resistor, especially if you have resistor caps which are the /7 style caps. Resistance from one cap to the other is important...should be 20-22Kohms. About 10-12K of that is the two coils...the other 10K is the two caps at 5K ohms each. You don't need anymore resistance in the plugs...it tends to reduce the efficiency of the combustion process.
I think you're right on the seat with the two handles...Ian Falloon's book shows just that. The book seems to indicate that the seat you show might be from a /6. Not sure, but the early /6 seats might have had seams running lengthwise in the seat and may had white piping.
It also says that the tanks were fitted with the Everbest petcock. From what I understand, these are a bear to keep working or not dripping...most likely people switch to the Karcoma which is on the right side of that tank.
As for the pinking, you'll need to run the highest octane you can get and keep the bike tuned. Three ways to deal with the problem: 1) base gaskets to lower the compression; 2) dual plugging; and 3) electronic ignition. The first two require some diving into the engine etc...wouldn't be my first choice. But an electronic ignition, like the Boyer, has a delayed advance curve which reduces the tendency to ping. Keeping the RPMs up and not lugging the motor is also the way to go. Not sure if any of the over-the-counter octane boosters would do the job, but certainly worth a try.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Mark - - Nice looking bike. I
Richard
I stubled across a youtube
It seems in this clip he had altered the neddle jet position and this left him with no 'pinking'. What's the std position from the bottom notch up on these-can anyone tell me should I delve in the carbs on a tuneup.
Oh that youtube piece is here:-
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... 9837810008#
Regards
Mark
- schrader7032
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According to the Bing book,
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Thx. Mark PS - what's the
Mark
PS - what's the 'bing' book - sounds like it could be quite useful.
- schrader7032
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