New forum member with first BMW purchase questions

[Darryl.Richman]

The "Airhead" boxers were so well known for their softly sprung suspension, and especially diving forks, that the Germans called them "Gummikuh" or rubber cows. However, there are fixes for the soft forks. BMW makes "heavy duty" fork springs and Progressive has progressively wound springs; both will stiffen things up. If you need more preload, you can add an inch or more of PVC pipe inside the forks.

Compared to the Sportster, you will have to rev the BMW higher to get more power. These bikes like to cruise at 4k rpm or more, and I wouldn't regularly ride one below about 3500. You defintely have to approach it differently than a Harley.

Most parts for this bike, or suitable equivalents, will be available at a BMW dealer, either in stock or with a week's delay to order out of NJ or CA. But they are often expensive. Alternatively, there are a number of used sources for parts, especially those disk rotors.

BMWs are not generally difficult to work on, but they are built in their own way. There's a lot of aluminum, so you will want to use a good torque wrench rather than giving it a good Ooomph. Some things inside are assembled with heat in order to get a good interference fit.

What's nice about these bikes is that they were built for 25 years and what problems they do sometimes get are well known and the answers to them are understood. Particular weak points can include the "diode board" rectifier and the alternator rotor; the rear wheel drive splines and mating splines in the wheel hub, for twin shock models; and the Valeo starter motors in the later bikes.

When looking at a bike, check for oil "on the shelf", the area where the oil sump projects back and under the transmission. Oil that is leaking from the transmission input shaft seal, the oil pump seal or the engine rear main seal will collect there. When the bike is idling, the RED generator light should be on, and it should go out before 2000 rpm. The YELLOW oil pressure light should go out immediately after the motor is started. (If it doesn't, don't buy the bike.) In both cases, you should check that the light has really gone out by viewing it in the dark.

There's a huge amount of information available for these bikes on the internet. Besides here, you can get questions answered at the Airheads Beemer Club, the BMW MOA and the Internet BMW Riders list.

[homefront]

Darryl,

Thanks for the reply - very encouraging. Nice web page, by the way!
Here's a pic of the bike I rode:

The speedo is damaged ("2000 miles ago", now presumably 14,000 miles total), the rear grab bar is missing, and it seems some "rattle can" touch-up has been done, but overall I like the looks and feel of the machine. I think with a change to the front springs, clean carbs and an overall cleanup I could be happy.
Is $3,000 reasonable for this bike in this condition?

[VBMWMO]

Greetings!

I currently own 2 motorcycles, a Sportster and a Kawasaki KLR. Both bikes were bought a couple of years ago for me to ride, each for very different circumstances: weekend cruising, and my weekday construction job commute.
My wife recently decided she would like to ride with me, and as you have already surmised, neither bike is very comfortable for two-up riding; both bikes are a little overwhelmed by us in different ways. The Sportster is undersprung and turns like a barge, which keeps our speeds low on twisting roads. The KLR handles turns better, but the back end squirms and the engine has to work hard when accelerating. The KLR seat is really a one person affair. Neither bike is suitable for much luggage. So, I've decided to put both bikes up for sale, and get something better suited to this new activity.
On a whim, I recently rode (alone) a 1986 R80, with an aftermarket(?) fairing. I noticed right off how light the bike felt, and how comfortable the ergos were. However, the bike has sat for over a year and didn't run too well; very cold blooded, and not much power down low. I also noticed how soft the front forks were, and under-damped. The twin front discs were powerful, and I had to be careful in using them. They also pulsed a bit - the rotors may need replacing.
Anyway, here are some questions:
Are the above issues with the R80 difficult to overcome?
I'll be using the bike both for twisty-road, daily commuting (no longer on construction sites), and two-up weekend jaunts; is a boxer the way to go, or should I look at a K bike? I don't need a racer, but whatever I get must handle much better than a Sportster, especially two-up.
I do all of my own maintenance, and most mechanical work. Will the R80 be a nightmare, or a blessing for this shadetree mechanic? Would a different boxer or a K be a better choice?