My R69 is ready for the swing arm reassembly of the drive shaft bell-to-taper (1:5) nut but I do not have a torque wrench that handles 100 ft/lb torque applications. I have a solid bar 1/2" and a long piece of pipe, but I am thinking that combo. is too imprecise. Should I seek out a shop to do this correctly or does anyone have a solution I might employ? I have a pretty well-stocked shop, but just nothing along that type of torque wrench (but might soon?).
I'll clarify: If your wrench only goes up to(indictates) 50 ft/pds and is 12" long from the center of the socket to the center of the handle then simply double the handle length to 24" to get 100 ft/pds (still 50 indicated) .
No, the dial reflects the reading at the socket end of the wrench. The dial doesn't know how many inches/feet/miles of an extension you have. Torque is force times distance and the dial is reading the amount of force you're putting in relative to the end of the torque wrench.
A simple example. If you have a 10 lb force applied at the end of a 10 inch torque wrench, the force will be 100 in-lbs and the dial will indicate that. If you add an extension (inline with the body of the torque wrench) of another 10 inches and use the same 10 lb force, the dial will still read 100 in-lbs but the actual torque will be 200 in-lbs.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
100 ft. Lbs... put a 2’ extension on a wrench and pull really hard! Guess how hard by imagining picking up a 50# sack of cement with one arm and you will be close enough!
The discussions above RE: extensions to a torque wrench don't make sense. If the torque value changes depending on length of handle then it would also apply various values depending on exactly where you hold the handle - an inch or two up or down would give a different torque reading. This is simply not the case, as that would defeat the accuracy of a torque wrench. Extending the handle gives the user more leverage but it does not change the reading on the wrench.
How I hold the handle on my old Sear beam-type wrench does make a difference on the applied torque. My torque wrench has a "floating" handle...it has a central pivot and when use it, I must ensure that the handle does not touch forward or aft of the pivot. If it does touch, then the effective distance of the applied force does change. In the end, it's probably not much of a change, but I'm conscious of this feature and endeavor to keep the handle from touch and have the handle "float" on the pivot pin.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
The discussions above RE: extensions to a torque wrench don't make sense. If the torque value changes depending on length of handle then it would also apply various values depending on exactly where you hold the handle - an inch or two up or down would give a different torque reading. This is simply not the case, as that would defeat the accuracy of a torque wrench. Extending the handle gives the user more leverage but it does not change the reading on the wrench.
Correct. My torque wrench will click at the torque I set it for. Extending the handle means it will require less force on the end of the handle but it will still be accurate. The only way to get an accurate indication of torque on the socket is to get a wrench that is capable of reading that much torque. I have a similar problem with my boat. The keel bolts need to be torqued to 275 lbs. I'm sure I can give myself the leverage to get there but since my torque maxes out at 100 lbs I have no way to be sure. That requires a 3/4 inch drive torque wrench that costs upwards of $600. I wish I could put a pipe on my torque wrench and save that money.