Slingers - To Do or Not To Do, that is the question

[skogas]

Thank you Bill, this project is a good learning experience for me on many different levels, and patience is one of the things I have to learn from it too.
The unanimous feedback is that the lower end needs to be overhauled (which makes sense), so now it basically comes to the choice of the approach for the task.

To be honest my preferred way would be to do it myself, but under the "hands on" guidance of the professional, who could also help evaluate the components. Unfortunately I don't see how I can fulfill this scenario easily at the moment, so will probably have to find some other way.

In any case I'll have to do better research of the local service providers and associated costs, just to see if this option is feasible for me at all.
If not - it'd have to be DIY, but instead of "hands on" guidance there will be virtual help available from the knowledgeable community

Cheers

[Joe Walterscheid]

A newb's opinion is clean the slingers. I'm in the process of cleaning my now. The bike is new to me with 30,000 mi I think. It did not run when I bought it. The head and cylinder had been taken off for what reason I'm not sure. Looks like possible top of piston damage. The slinger was full. I was able to clean it out and will reuse it. I bought the top and bottom videos for the singles as well as the I tool. Well worth the money. I understand the thought of riding for a while but as stated the cost for repairing the bottom end looks to be costly and a pain.
Joe

[Twocams]

I decided to do the slingers my self. But I was a Heavy Equipment mechanic in the USAF for 20 yrs....and 28 days.So I have a little knowledge. But my bike had sat in a carport for 1-2 yrs and one of the pistons & cylinders was rusted inside. Both jugs were off at the time. Re Bored the cylinders first over.
This is where it starts to add up. Pistons $200 each, boring $80, tools $200+, rear main bearing $185, front $114. Cam bearings $40? Gaskets and seals engine and trans $200+. Heating torch $40, Blind hole puller for cam bearing that didn't come out of case$70. Bought a 12 ton press from Harbor Freight $100 didn't need one, but by the time I keep going to machine shop it will pay for itself. I have a 2 arm bike lift but get tired of lying on the floor (me,66 yrs in March) Harbor Freight here I come again. Ride on hydraulic bike lift $200. Hot plate $60, video $35. Steering head bearings $60? And of course Barrington book $100. Some things I have forgot here and some you wont need here. But may give a general Idea. This doesnt include the rattle can paint, chroming, sandpaper & powder coating. But things are coming together or should I say going together.

Rich
Grants Pass, Or.

[bmwmyplace]

Andy give me a call in Brisbane 07 3289 2008 I may have some information for you cheers Peter

[skogas]

Hi guys, thanks for the input!

Joe - good on you undertaking the task yourself and hope it all works out well with your project!

Rich - I know exactly what you mean about the costs starting to snowball after a certain point. I am keeping the spreadsheet with expenses, and it probably would've been healthier for my sleep if I didn't
Also the exchange rate of the Australian dollar dipped quite a bit over the past year, which doesn't help either as all spares have to come from overseas.

Peter - thanks for your time earlier today, please let me know if you find the details of the mechanic here in Melbourne, as every connection helps.

Cheers

[Twocams]

Take lots of pictures as you disassemble things. I thought I did but. If something doesnt look right I go to the parts page to double check THEIR work. You dont know if the last "clown" that worked on something put it back together right. Hey its only money, and you cant take it with you.

Oh yes I forgot, new tires & tubes $ 240. for my bike.

Rich

[mark_weiss]

The slingers ARE your oil filter. If this were a newer bike and you knew that a replacement oil filter would cost in the range of $400, would you skip it?

You can save yourself quite a bit of cash, and still have the slingers professionally replaced, if you just bring in the bottom end of the engine. Most of what it takes to get to that point is simply time consumption, not technical expertise.

[R.D.Green]

In 2008, I bought a really nice '69 R60 with complete ownership history and documented 11,500 original miles. 11,500 miles - - surely the slingers would not need servicing, right? In any case, despite the low mileage, I decided to check the slingers at about 12,500 miles. One was nearly full and the other was about two-thirds full. Why? Because the bike had sat up for a number of years? Type of oil used? Frequency of oil changes? All of the above? Who knows?

[VintageSalesandRestorations]

The bulk of the material that is in the slingers goes in there in the first 1000 miles or so as the motor breaks in.

Jeff

[schrader7032]

What about the situations where a bike sat up for a good many years and the oil was changed to detergent and then started. All that stuff that was stuck to the inside is likely going to slough off and end up in the slingers. I think that's one of the reasons that if you have an unknown maintenance history, you do yourself a favor just to bite the built and get it done. Then you have to ask yourself...how many years before you put 30-40K miles on the bike? For me, I don't think I'll do that in my riding lifetime. So, it's real peace of mind.