R60/2 Rocker end float

[SteveH]

I have a 1961 R60/2 .
When i first start the bike there is no tappet noise but after it warms up i can hear the tappets.
Ive checked the valve clearances when cold and they seem ok but i noticed that there is some end float on the rocker arms , in other words if i try to move a rocker up and down i can feel some movement along the shaft.
I intend to loosen the head bolts and reposition the rocker shaft mounting blocks inwards to eliminate the clearance, but still leave the rockers free to move.
My question is has anybody done this and do you need a special tool to hold the shaft mounting blocks in position whilst re- torquing the head bolts ?

[schrader7032]

My understanding is that the /2 rocker arms and posts they sit on are different than some of the /5/6/7 heads. In the much later years, you had to use shims to put the proper spacing on the rocker arms. But for the early Airheads, this technique works pretty well. On my /7, I just used my fingers to hold reasonable compression on the pillow blocks and then quickly put some tension on the nuts. Duane Ausherman shows an agressive method for doing this:

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/valve/valve7.JPG

The page that this comes from is labeled specifically for /5-on engines. I think for the /2 heads, the rocker arms are set in a fixed location so this approach won't work. If there's significant up-down movement on your /2 heads, it might mean that parts have to be replaced.

[808Airhead]

I have the EXACT same issue with mine and the same thoughts on solutions as well,quiet when cold,tappety when hot. I was racking my brain to try to fix this,checking valves etc.,and they were OK. It has been 5k miles in my ownerships (total 15,348miles)and when I rebuild/do slingers next year,then I will have a opportunity to inspect further.
So far it does not seem to affect the bike at all,I drive it no problems at all,I have accepted it as almost "normal".
In the Barrington manual they have a small section on this,and they recommend carefully banging the 2 pedestals towards each other with strategically placed hammers,which did nothing for mine except nick one of the pedestals. as well as using a press method to tighten up the rocker up & down play,they also mention excessive side play will result in valve train noise.
When I do my rebuild I will be using a vise and press the pedestals closer together and leave .005-.006 and see how much if at all, this helps with the noise. I can easily slide .018-.020 gauges in there now,no problem,and you can see the play.
My R69s has a valve train that only gets slightly louder when warm,but not as much as my R60/2,and the R69s has needle bearing rockers vs. bushed rockers for the 60/2. Could it be the rocker bushings possibly? Who knows,right? !!

[Darryl.Richman]

I have seen this adjustment made with a C clamp and two sockets (that go over the rocker shaft ends), but it has to be done carefully so as not to make it too tight. There shouldn't be any resistance to rocking after setting it up.

[SteveH]

I took a closer look at the amount of movement and i have between 0.008 and 0.010 when cold , using a feeler gauge.
I had a look at a diagram on Uli's and it looks as if the R69 has thrust washers at each end to take up any play.
It also quotes a part as follows -

M056 34112 Rocker arm thrust washer R24-R60/2

But this is listed under the sectiion -

BMW R24 - R69S 1949 - 1969
Group M: Engine all Single

So i am not sure if this is correct ?

I will try the adjustment using a C clamp and sockets but only if there is clearance between the rocker shaft mounting blocks and the head bolts .if there is very little or no clearance clamping the blocks inwards will force them to rotate slightly.
The other options i am looking at are either to use shim washers or upgrade to R69 needle bearings and thrust washers if this is possible

[schrader7032]

Vech can answer any questions you have.

But as stated, the Barrington manual is quite clear on this. The only ways to adjust the end float is to use either clamping force or hammer force to permanently adjust the distances. If there was another way, the manual would likely offer it.