1961 R50S

[anjimehra]

Sorry, posted the wrong year of manufacture

Anji

[schrader7032]

Hi guys
Am in the final stages of thr restoration of the R50S. Parts are back from the m/c shop. Any particular pitfalls in the assembling of the block & heads ?? that need to be taken care of?? Do I need to apply any gasket adhesive / cement on the rubber groumets on the push rod tunnels?

Thanks
Anji

[schrader7032]

Anji -

I changed the thread title, just so no one gets confused...hope that's all right??

I used a small amount of Hylomar on the pushrod tube rubbers, wherever the rubber touched metal. Another option would be Permatex products like Ultra Gray. You don't want an adhesvie or cememt...the seals must be free to move as the engine changes temperature, etc.

One thing you'll want to be sure of is the proper "squeeze" on the pushrod seals once the cylinders are bolted to the block. When I did my R69S, the pushrod tubes had been removed completed from the cylinders. When the mechanic put them back in, he didn't put them in too deep. Then once I bolted the cylinders on the engine, I had a drift (bought from Vech) to drive the tubes slowly towards the engine case until I got a comfortable compression on the seals. I can't really say how much...but there is too much! If too much, they will split in time. I'd say, make contact with the ring on the tube and then go another 2-4mm after that. You can always come back and hit a little more if necessary.

Is there a shim at the cylinder base? My R69S had the thinnest one. I don't think any sealant is necessary, but again, I put a thin layer of Hylomar on each side of the shim.

[anjimehra]

Hi Kurt

Sorry I didnt respond earlier, but was touring. Thanks for the much appreciated advice. Will send you a feed back asap

Take care & ride safe

Anji

[anjimehra]

Finally got the engine together & am tackling the gear box. Read somewhere that one needs to heat the whole gearbox to remove the end cover. Since I dont have this facility at home, can it be removed witout heating & if so, any precautions to be taken?? Thanks
Anji

__________________
Anji

[schrader7032]

Anji -

I've never done this and probably wouldn't have the pelotas to try! But the Barrington manual says to heat the rear cover to around 200 degrees with something like a MAPP torch. Seems to me that heat must be used and it's really only needed at the rear cover. They mention a tool that goes through the rear cover and rests against the rear of the transmission input shaft. Then when the tool is turned is pushes the rear cover off. If no tool, using a hammer and hardward on some of the outer edge protuberances should help release the cover. Some caution is given for final removal of the cover to avoid binding of shafts and shift forks.

Seems pretty complicated to me!!

[Bruce Frey]

A gas barbecue grill would work if you have access to one.

Bruce

[R68]

I'm curious: why are you taking this gearbox apart? How do your mechanical skills compare with the fellows who originally assembled the gearbox? I've concluded that many of these internet authorities seem capable of assembling kompressor rennsport motors on their lunch break with blindfolds in place; are you capable of such feats? An R50S is a really nice and rare BMW. Your fortunate to have such a fine machine.