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/2 Clutch versions
/2 Clutch versions
I have some mechanical noise from the clutch. the noise disappear once the clutch is pressed. So, I'm goin to do a clutch job and I've stated to collect parts.
I've noticed that there are 2 versions for the clutch plate. one with vented base plate and riveted friction pad, the other with solid base plate and glued friction pad.
Is this different relevant? What is the best version? (i.e what is the original version)
Here are the two version:
Re: /2 Clutch versions
1964 BMW R69S
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- schrader7032
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Re: /2 Clutch versions
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
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Re: /2 Clutch versions
The riveted one in the lower photo is a spring center riveted clutch.
The spring center clutch is by far the better clutch. If you look at the outer edge, you will see that the spring steel plate, between the friction plates, is NOT flat, but as an arch to it. This allows a progressive engagement, allowing you to take off on an incline, much easier.
The bonded clutch was an earlier design, that has very abrupt engagement. It is either engaged, on it isn't. Makes taking off on an incline from a standing start much more difficult.
The "noise" you are hearing, when in neutral, is NOT the clutch. It is the straight cut gears in the transmission. This is normal. When in neutral, ALL the gears (1st through 4th) are engaged and spinning. None are locked to the output shaft until it is shifted. !st through 3rd are straight cut gears. Only 4th is helical cut gears. When no under load, all the straight cut gears chatter due to the lash (slop) between the teeth. And when you pull the clutch arm back, you disengage the input shaft of the gearbox to the engine, and all the gears stop turning, and that is why the noise disappears.
There is nothing wrong with anything. That is what they do. Do check the oil level in the gearbox however. If you let it run out of oil, it will destroy the ball bearings eventually, and the lack of oil will make it become very noisy!
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