Very hard to start r60/2

[VintageJim]

If the engine was completely rebuilt is it possible the cam is off a tooth? I had that issue with a car engine.

[Drifter4jc]

There is one more test to do on a magnitio. When I had a low spark on a R60, I pulled then mag out and did the megnetic test placing the meg up against a metal table leg to check the strength and if weak, then there's a process to re-magnitez it

[dendy7448@gmail.com]

Hi salilla.
I may have had the same problem as you have after a complete rebuild of an R50/2. I tried everything known to man to get my motor to keep running but everything thing failed. New plugs by several sizes, new carbies (brand new from Stemmlers ) I removed the magneto and installed a PowerDynamo ignition /12v alternator and still no improvement. I took the fully assembled bike back to the engine builder and put the bike on a set of rollers and run the back wheel at about 20 km/h. the motor coughed and spluttered and would run at high rpm but would die anywhere below 1500 rpm. A by-standing visitor to the rebuilders workshop asked the question. Have you done a Leak Down Test? The Rebuilder dismissed the question with the answer that the valves were new and SincroSeated and that would not be the problem. The Rebuilder said to me that he had demonstrated that his work was all that it should be so take your bike and go. I left the Rebuilders workshop very disillusioned.
The comment as to a Leak Down Test started to go around in my mind as another Port in a Storm. I got on Google and dialed in Engine Leak Down Test and up came lots of articles on the topic, describing how to do it and how to make the appropriate instrument to perform a LDT. I made a LDT tester from odds & sods that I had lying around my workshop. I installed the LDT, turned the motor over to TDC opened the tap on the LDT and much to my surprise the intake valve was hissing its head off and the Gage on the LDT was registering near total loss. I went to the other cylinder and hooked up the LDT and repeated the test, it was leaking as well registering about half the acceptable level of compression. I was now praying and hoping that I had found my problem.
I took of the two cylinder heads and lapped in the four valves which were clearly not seating properly when tested with a bluing grease test. After several reruns of the lapping process all four valves were seating 100% OK. I reassembled the heads back into there respective locations, carbies and exhaust back in place. Then the acid test, flood the carbies and give it a kick. Two kicks and away in went as smooth as one could ever hope for. Although the valves had been SincroSeated they had not been lapped in and that was the problem that no one could track down in the belief that a reco motor would be perfect.
If you are still having problems with you starting I would recommend you try a Leak Down Test.
Happy riding from Melbourne Australia.

[chrishea]

Check to see if the idle jets are clogged.

I chased what I thought was coil/electrical and one of the idle jets was completely clogged. Make sure a fine wire can go through, seeing light through isn’t always reliable indication of the jet being clear.

[dendy7448@gmail.com]

xxxx

[jgreen]

I'd check to see if your valves are too tight. No compression if the valves are open, and no bang.

[808Airhead]

Put in non resistor caps and try to reduce the spark plug gap to .020 or so.