R69 ignition retard lever / correct magneto

[Slash2]

Hi Starklint-
The magneto unit on the R69 is unique to the R68 and R69 only, while all the other models (R50-R69S) share a standard magneto that has no manual advance mechanism.

This is the one I have installed at the moment. Guess mine is the standard magneto with no advance mechanism?

The right side lobe in this picture is way outside the face of the advance and as another member said perhaps you’ve got the wrong spring in there. Also there is to be no washer under the head of this bolt.

[Seek]

The R69 also has a different magnetic rotor. At least the flange for the oilseal is a different size.

[808Airhead]

Thanks for posting this Seek… I wondered why the rotor is different than any others!! It has a shorter boss on the back side/ oil seal area. I was confused until I saw this post

[jwonder]

Attached are pictures of one that I recently pulled off my R 68 in order to put the Pentacom plate on from flyingtpot (which is an upgrade).

Before I pulled it off I had the adjuster locked down and I put a spring on the end of the disconnected cable so the handle would work but it would do nothing. So I agree with locking it in place.

[vechorik1373]

Let me explain why and what the purpose of the lever is. For starters, it is a RETARD lever. The arrangement was used on the R68 and R69. It was used because the R68 and R69 were high compression engines and in many countries, that the bikes were exported or ridden into, gasoline was very poor, and low octane. If you were riding into those countries and did not have high octane fuel, in order to prevent pre ignition (ping) under acceleration, you pulled the lever back, to retard the timing, far enough to STOP the pinging, which will damage the engine if it is allowed to continue. You simply retarded the timing until the ping stopped, and went no further. The R68 and R69 both have automatic advances, the same as all the other bikes. The timing should be adjusted with the lever pushed ALL the way forward to the most advanced position.
The down side of this is once you do retard the spark using the lever, and then you chose to put it in the full advance position (for starting the machine.. remember it has an automatic advance and starting it with the lever pulled back retarding the timing TOO much for starting easily) the lever back at full advance position rarely allows the the breaker plate to return precisely to the position it was in when you timed the engine during the tune up.
Furthermore, with modern premium fuel that is now available everywhere, the feature is useless.
And, when the bike is parked, you know how people passing by LOVE to move levers.

My advice is to yes, have the cable, with a spring and a washer and clamp on the end, so the lever will move, (for correct appearances) but do not connect to to the movable breaker plate. (that way if the lever is moved by a passerby, it will not effect the timing) I always removed and replace the two long screws that had the spring on them, that allowed the breaker plate to pivot, with standard short screws used on R50 - R60/2 and R69S to lock the breaker plate in position.

[808Airhead]

If anyone on this thread wants to sell the entire magneto bracket assembly or just the 2 brackets for the cable and adjustable points I am a buyer. I also can trade a standard mag assembly + cash. I have the correct R69 Magneto but am missing the cable holder bracket and the small bracket next to it that is close to the end of the adjustable plate . I included pics below. taivw@hotmail.com is my e-mail. Thanks!

[Seek]

When you fix this plate and remove the retard lever adjustment, how do you adjust the timing instead?
Until now I adjust the timing with the cable adjuster and that works kind of.