1965 R 60 w/no spark

[schrader7032]

Sounds like something is really off with the basic settings on the bike. Have you seen this manual?

http://www.snafu.org/restore/uandm_bmw_v1.pdf

This is an older version...Vech sells an updated copy. But, this will tell you some very important details about the electrical system.

In general, these systems are very simple and will run under the worst of conditions. You should be sure of the various alignments, etc.

You said you have the magneto rotor off. Did you get it back in the correct spot? There is an alignment procedure that will provide the best chance for a spark at the time when you reallly need it...during the kick start process. Basically, with the engine flywheel at the S-mark in the timing window, the mark on the magneto body should show up in the v-notch on the body of the magneto. Be sure that is the case.

Are the points set correctly? Do they open and close as they should? The basic points gap should be 0.016" set when the points are riding on the highest point of the cam. This number can change somewhat, but this is a good starting point. You want to points to just open as the S-mark shows up in the timing window. I determine this by using a voltmeter connected to the screw on top of the points and to engine case or ground. In order to get this to work, you must remove one of the two wires that attach to the top of the points. You should have a wire coming from the condensor and also a wire coming from the magneto coil. This second wire is a ground wire. If you don't remove that during the timing process, you'll always have continuity. The voltmeter, set to the beeping function, should stop beeping just as the points open.

If you need to adjust the timing, don't adjust the magneto body using the two 10mm nuts on either side. Once the magneto timing is set, you do not need to touch it again. Timing adjust is done using the two screws that hold the points unit to the front of the magneto body.

What is the resistance between the two high tension spots where the spark plug wires connect? This is the secondary winding and should be in the neighborhood of 15-17K ohms. You have a new coil from Vech...is this the Emerald coil? They should be a good replacement.

Is the safety gap set correctly with the coil? On the original coil and magneto body, there should be two small points which are just below where the spark plug leads plug into. The distance between the ends of the spark plug leads/posts should be 10mm. If this distance is too small, the spark could be jumping to these instead of the plugs. The spark will take the path of least resistance.

Have a look over this book and see if any of this helps. Something basic really seems like it's out of whack...

Kurt in S.A.

[Allan.Atherton]

... have no spark... I have a 6v bulb w/alligator clips ... Do I simply ground it and hook on to the wire from the coil once disconnected from the points and kick? ...
The bulb is for setting timing, not for checking for spark.

First set the magneto to the abrisz points to make the strongest spark.

Then disconnect the wire from the coil to the points, and connect the bulb clips to the points and the battery. Then turn the engine over with the allen wrench to use the bulb to set the points to open at the S mark.

Once you have the points set, then kick the engine over with a plug removed and laying on the cylinder to see the spark.

You may have all the right new parts, but are unable to set them up to make a spark.

If you need to know more about setting the magneto, points and timing, we can provide links to those subjects.

[Allan.Atherton]

... connect the bulb clips to the points and the battery....
Am not totally certain of this part for the magneto ignition /2, as I use a self-powered bulb or buzzer which connects to the points and ground.

But on battery ignition bikes like my R27 and former airheads, I used unpowered bulbs and connected to battery. So since your bulb is unpowered, I guess you can use the /2 battery, but not sure.

[EuroIron]

enlighten me as to what you mean by 'pulled the magneto off to clean the contact surfaces'


run a white piece of paper thru the closed points set

and do this until white paper comes out clean

you'll need to putz about with the tension on the points as fully closed they will simply hold onto the paper and tear it since there just needs to be enough tension on them to allow the paper to drag thru

you need to do these even if you have filed off the tungsten with a points file

but you don't have to remove the magneto to clean the points


also....... a squirt or two of electrical contact solvent/cleaner won't hurt a thing


sounds to me like you have dirty points


if you get tired of it, I will let you know that I can arrange to have the bike, whole or in parts, hauled off

[VBMWMO]

Hi, My R 60/2 has been correctly stored for many years. Upon attempting to start it this year, I found the spark erratic. I did manage to get it running for several seconds. I purchased points/condenser fron Vech. They made no difference. In fact, I now have no spark. Next came a new coil and still no spark. I have done all that I am capable of doing to get a spark. I have checked for grounding issues. I have even re-installed my old coil and points/condenser in various combinations. I pulled the mag off and cleaned the contact surfaces. I have checked fire at the plugs, points and coil wire to the points. I may not be checking the coil wire properly. I have a 6v bulb w/alligator clips for +,-. I tested it on the battery and it works. Do I simply ground it and hook on to the wire from the coil once disconnected from the points and kick? I have been at this problem off and on for several weeks. My next option is a 100 mile trip to the BMW dealer in Freeport, Maine. I would appreciate any insight.