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R69 not running right
R69 not running right
From my Newbie thread:
I'm wondering if you should revisit you're starting routine. Each bike requires just a little different process depending on the state of tune and carb setup. How much to tickle, how to use the throttle, etc. I've finally settled in on a good routine on my R69S. A couple of things that I do that, I hope, helps it start. After I tickle each carb, I kick through 3-4 times, key off and throttle closed. Then I turn the ignition on and with little to no throttle, kick it...it usually starts first or second kick.
Kurt in S.A.
It woiked!
R69 not running right
I've noticed that if I run the engine with the petcock closed to empty the carbs of fuel, when I re-open the petcock I can hear fuel flowing down to the carbs in a slow gurgle and then if I quickly open the gas cap the fuel starts flowing very noticeably faster and easier.
My question now is: how does air get into the top of the tank to prevent the vacuum from forming? My cap has a rubber gasket around the inside and screws on very tightly -- there's no way any air's getting in the tank unless you unscrew the cap. Does anyone know of another type of cap that somehow allows air in? Is there some other reasonable method of creating an air flow?
- schrader7032
- Posts: 9057
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R69 not running right
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
R69 not running right
run it without a cap
if that cures it
you found your problem quite simply
then simply drill a hole in your cap and live with it or get a new one
R69 not running right
Re: R69 not running right
my take: when it sputters, stop engine and immediately close fuel tap. Open float bowls and check fuel level - this tells if you have a flow restriction or stuck float with subsequent over supply.
However my bet is that your ignition points are dodgy. Nowadays the quality of aftermarket parts is questionable. The points can 'stick', meaning they do not rotate frreely on the axes or the spring is obstructed. I have also had problems with the nylon cam wearing very quicly, especially with new points - some seem to settle down once worn in. ALso the spark bypasses on the coil can be too closely adjusted, handbook says 11mm - but that is the shortest distance between anything and the terminals. On reco coils the terminals may be out of place and the spark jumps to another palce than the brass pointy thingies.
All of the above can depend on temperature and be intermittend, with a tendency to getting worse.
I have fixed my sputtering problems by observing the above and taking the mechanical igntion parts off the engine, freeing everything nicely and lubricating all moving surfaces with thin oil. Make sure the felt is in place and touches and is well lubed - I use 2.5W shock oil and refresh it every service.
Let us know what you find..
Jim
R69 not running right
The fuel flow from the petcock is strong (more than 100cl/15 seconds as per Duane A's recommendation). I inspected the floats and they appear to be in good working order. I took off the front engine cover and ran it in the dark -- no visible sparking at the points or anywhere else (except a bit at the generator brushes at higher RPMs).
Question: If the condensor is bad, will there definitely be sparking at the points or not necessarily?
Spark plug leads are brand new and the screws holding them to the coil are tight. When I inspected the plugs (which are brand new), the gaps were correct, but they had a lot of fluffy black carbon on them. I cleaned them off and the engine ran a bit better afterwards but still very rough.
Question: Is the carbon on the plugs a result of the rough running or possibly a symptom of the problem? Also from one of the replies above, someone wrote that "the plug is a NGK BP6HS and the gap is .020" Once they get fouled they are NG." Is this true? Should I buy new plugs? Also, what is the correct gap? .020 is smaller than what the owner's manual suggests.
I also noticed that where the spark plug leads attach to the coil, the bare wire comes out below the small brass cylinder that the wire mounts to. The space between the pointy brass part below and the end of the spark plug lead is considerably less than 10mm.
Question: The suggested measurement of 10-11mm is from what point to what point exactly?
Any thoughts are appreciated.
- schrader7032
- Posts: 9057
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
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R69 not running right
The saftey gap of 10mm is to anything... If the wire from the spark plug lead sticks through the post significantly, then the 10mm should be measured to that. The spark will jump to the closest point and the exposed end of the wire could be that point.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
-
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
R69 not running right
R69 not running right
You lot must be very brave if you ride these bikes out on the road without a rubber band over the key, I wouldn't, even if the switch and key were new, and stayed down, in fact the practice used to be so universal here that until I was about 14 I thought that was how it was intended to be!When riding, it would suddenly start to sputter and miss a bit like it was runnig out of gas. The problem was in the key switch at the headlight, it would work its way up just the tiniest little bit (you can't see it) and the bike would "shut itsefl off" just for a second. I'd push down on the key and all would be well.
Also, if you don't have the rubber band (cut from a 4.00 inner tube), what keeps water out of the switch? Here in the UK, and most other places where the authorities put salt on the roads in winter, your switch would rot away in one winter if you didn't keep it out.
Here are two good examples, on this pristine, original, low-mileage R60.