Pertinax Terminal Board

[wa1nca]

Option #2 would be best
Quote:
Thanks Tommy, the wires lost their color jackets over the years and both are black. Which end goes where? Any ideas?

I think it would be faster to call me while we are both looking at this post
Good time for you ?
5:30_6pm EST today good for me
I'm on the east coast
413-628-3958
Tommy

[San Arthur]

Tommy, thanks for you kind offer. When is a good time to reach you? I sent you a PM.

[wa1nca]

Today 5:30-6pm EST
Ok ?
Tommy

[San Arthur]

OK
Thanks

[San Arthur]

Any ideas on where can I get this type of connectors? What is the name of these type of connectors?

Thanks

[San Arthur]

Any ideas where to find it? Salis was not able to help me.

From: info@salisparts.com
Date: April 5, 2022 at 12:51:02 PM CDT
To: Arturo Ibarra <san_arthur@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: And another question/


I buy these boards from a German colleague, who probably gets them from East Europe or Asia.
But he will not tell me who his supplier is.

Kind regards,

Jan Withagen
Salis Parts

[Jim D 5112]

I would remove the end screw and drill a hole in through the center of it. Insert an aluminum rivet down through the center of it and through the board Put a washer over the rivet and rivet it to the board. Use a piece of round stock inserted down through the center hole to support the head of the rivet. Hold the piece of stock in a vise in an upright position. You could counter drill the inside hole to provide a pocket for the rivet head. I can think of some other ways to use the old one to attach it to the board. Easier to work with what you have than to find an unused new one.

[San Arthur]

Jim, thanks for answering.

I don't think aluminium will stand the vibrations. The original rivet is steel.

I also purchase a mechanical connector lug in Lowe's.



Is looks massive on top of the board.



I decided to modified and drill a hole to fit 3mm copper rivets.



I think this size is acceptable, but I'm still looking for the original connector/rivets.



Another suggestion by my good friend John D is to use a brass or steel screw or bolt, installed from the inside of the generator housing, thru the board and then use two nuts to secure the screw and the wire terminal.
It could be soldered to the mounting plate for good solid connection.



Like a speaker wire post.



I would make sure that the head of the screw or bolt is not protruding too far into the generator case. It might need to be ground down.

Is nor elegant or original, but should work too. What do you think?

[wa1nca]

I like this:

Tommy

[San Arthur]

Thanks Tommy.

If I can't find the real thing, I probable will go with this solution.