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Trying to remove pressure plate slotted screws with engine in place.
Trying to remove pressure plate slotted screws with engine in place.
- schrader7032
- Posts: 9057
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Re: Trying to remove pressure plate slotted screws with engine in place.
As for the screws, when I did mine, I had the fortune of doing it with the engine out of the frame. I stood the engine on it's nose...with protection...and then leaned onto the screwdriver from above and turned them off. I used a screwdriver blade that fit the slots tightly and then used an open end wrench to turn the square-shafted screwdriver. You could look for some grinding paste on the blade of the screwdriver to help it grip. I saw one of those "life hacks" where someone was having trouble getting a regular/smaller screw out. They used a wide rubber band for the blade to dig into while in the slot...seemed to help that situation.
Try some of that with the engine in the frame...maybe have a second pair of hands holding the screwdriver while the other person uses the wrench to turn the screwdriver.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Re: Trying to remove pressure plate slotted screws with engine in place.
R60/2, R65 LS
1973 Norton 850, 1973 RD 350
- Micha
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Re: Trying to remove pressure plate slotted screws with engine in place.
I placed it under the engine, lifted a bit, enough to loosen the threaded rods and then pulled it out of place - sideways, on my knees.
I then got up "through my knees", kept my back straight, and placed it on a pre-prepared table at the appropriate height.
I admit that today in my physical condition I would not do it again.
R51/3 1952
Engine Nr. 529466
Re: Trying to remove pressure plate slotted screws with engine in place.
We did use a bench grinder to grind the flat head bit to the perfect fit which helped as well.
- jwonder
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Re: Trying to remove pressure plate slotted screws with engine in place.
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- vechorik1373
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Re: Trying to remove pressure plate slotted screws with engine in place.
Richard and I have replaced MANY a clutch plate doing just as I described.
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Re: Trying to remove pressure plate slotted screws with engine in place.
R60/2, R65 LS
1973 Norton 850, 1973 RD 350
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Re: Trying to remove pressure plate slotted screws with engine in place.
R69S - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3 - R69
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Re: Trying to remove pressure plate slotted screws with engine in place.
I know this is a very old thread, but believe the good folks here may be able to help. I have a '54 R67 with the same old style clutch as Kurt's in his photos. I decided to replace mine because it was slipping. And when I opened it up this weekend, I noticed that some oil had dripped past the felt on the clutch push rod and contaminated the rear clutch material (in addition, the clutch disc was down to 5.03 mm thickness). I have replaced the clutch disc in mine and reassembled it (all in the bike, btw, using a Milwaukee 1/4" impact driver this time). My clutch now looks like Kurt's does in his photos. Since reassembling it, the clutch lever is VERY hard to pull. In fact, it doesn't engage the clutch at all. I plan on disassembling it again. What did I do wrong?
My initial thought was I had put the clutch disc in backwards. Currently (as in Kurt's photo), the proud center piece is facing back toward the gearbox. Is that wrong?
Alternatively, I am thinking that I didn't align the square end of the clutch push rod into the square hole of the rearward-facing clutch plate.
Any clues?
Many thanks!
John
(currently back in Pretoria, South Africa)