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Handlebar risers
Handlebar risers
I’ve seen plenty of cracked and damaged risers for sale and I’d rather run the euro bar if that’s what I’m dealing with.
I would think heat and slow steady force would work but just don’t want to run the risk of damaging the chrome.
Thanks!
Re: Handlebar risers
Bill
Barre, MA USA
1963 R60/2 w/ 1955 Steib S500
1973 R75/5
- schrader7032
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Re: Handlebar risers
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.
Re: Handlebar risers
Cut the bars apart right in the middle of where the risers will be. Grind away space for the weld. Install the risers and weld the bars back together. Grind as needed and bolt it all together. The risers will hide the welds.
Mike
69 R60/2 76 R90S 78 R100RS
70 Triumph w/Spirit Eagle Sidecar
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Re: Handlebar risers
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California
Re: Handlebar risers
Jon, can you give a bit more detail as to how you “carefully” opened them? I’m on the fence there. I like the US bar and have two R69S with euro bars so it made sense to run one with the high bar.
Feels a bit like rolling the dice and I’m not much for gambling.
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Re: Handlebar risers
(On a separate note, Danny Vu, an eBay seller of polished stainless parts, also says not to try to spread stainless risers because the riser itself is likely to break.)
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California
Re: Handlebar risers
I've done this a few times and it always gives me the willies. But it always has worked for me without cracks.
I open them up using a go-bar or metal rod that fits the upper hole fairly tight then pull back towards the tank to gently open them up while maintaining a smooth radius. Just prying them open often causes them to bend more quickly in one part of the radius but with a rod you can apply some "english" to the pulling action and smooth out the radius and rate of opening.
I open up until nearly large enough to pass the old bar and then pop it through. Logic being; why open any further than needs be? I protect the new bar with thin electrical tape to slide through the tight gap when I fit the new bars. Then slowly close them up with first the go-bar rod then finish with the bolt once the holes align. Whew...the willies I tell ya !
I did buy a used set of risers once that had been freshly re-chromed in the opened-up position. The chrome completely crazed as I closed up the risers; became a solid ring of tiny cracks: I assume that if you re-chrome, they must be re-chromed in the closed position as chrome has poor elasticity.
Good luck!
Grant in Toronto