Timing not exact after a rebuild..

[skyler.robbins]

Hey Gang,
I had my R60/2 motor rebuilt a couple months ago. I've only put about 300 miles on it since the rebuild.
It's been riding great.. sounds/feels good.
Spark plug color is a nice brownish color.

I decided to check the timing cause that's what I do..

Before the rebuild, the "S" line would line up perfect with the window notch.
At the same time, the magneto "V" notch would be in line as well.
Finally, my buzz box would alarm at the same moment ( points opening ).

Now..
The "S" mark line is a good 1/4" below the window notch before the Buzz box alarms ( points opening ) yet the magneto "V" notch is lined up within the "V"

Points are gapped to .015

I know the "S" mark isn't as important as the "F" mark.
"F" mark shows up in the window at 3000 rpm.

Am I overthinking this and shouldn't adjust the timing?
Should I turn the points plate to the left and advance it a bit so that the "S" lines up better?

[skyler.robbins]

Picture of when magneto lines up and buzz box alarms.. this is the "S" in window 1/4" below mark.

[Beemer100]

As you mentioned before, the F(rueh) mark is way more important than the S(paet) mark. Before adjusting the ignition I would test this first. Important also, if the mark stays there once you rev higher than the 3000rpm.

In case you see the same picture, I personally wouldn't bother. What you have is a roughly 2 degrees off ignition (2mm equals roughly 1 degree and I guess you are around 4mm off). I run on some of my bikes the Sachse electronic ignition. Sachse offers either 3 or 7 different ignition curves (depends, how much you want to pay for the ignition). Some of these curves end at 39 degrees, some at 36 degrees. Easy change between curves ... so it is quite easy to road test. My finding is, that the bike runs as good at 36 degrees as it runs at standard 39 degrees. However, the heads are at least 10 degrees C colder with a more retarded spark. I guess, today's gasoline doesn't need anymore the same spark timing.

So, long story short: If F is at the same position (stable, also at higher revs) as the S in your picture, I wouldn't bother.

best
KLaus

[skyler.robbins]

Thanks Klause!
I'll check that today again with timing light.
I "could" shift the points plate a tad to adjust for the retard.. make sure the "S" is flashing at idle and then get the motor up to 3000 rpm and make sure that the "F" is there as well and holding steady... right?
Again, this is just to move the lines about 1/4" up on flywheel.
But if not, all is well as is.

Rob

[skyler.robbins]

Update:
Decided to move the points plate slightly to the right to advance timing..
Got the points to open perfectly on the "S" mark.. and buzz box is right there buzzing with it.
Started it up..
Put the strobe on it and the "S" is dead on at 800 rpm idle.
The "F" holds steady in the hole at 3000 rpm.
Points are still gapped to .015

While this all was probably unnecessary, I feel better having a starting point after the rebuild.

Thanks again!

[wa1nca]

Good news
Now that you know your point gap and the timing is ok
The only thing that will change your timing is the wear on the points block so setting that back to .015 then the timing will be corrected and no need to readjust that awfull point plate.
Ps
Dont forget to add a couple drops of oil on the felt pad to lube the point block

Tommy

[skyler.robbins]

Good point!
And I remembered to add some Sil Glide to the felt.