Hot start problems

[CWRoady]

I know this is an old thread, but it practically mirrors my situation. Can I get some input on which 6V replacement coil is recommended for my '55 R50?

[schrader7032]

I only know of the Emerald Isle replacement coil. Vech sells them.

[CWRoady]

Thank you Kurt. Vech and Richard are my go to for sure. They have been so helpful all along my rebuild. They offer two variations .. saving money and getting a warranty seems like the way to go, but thought I would ask here to see if any of you had experiences that I should learn from.

12 13 8 004 104--$235.00--ignition coil R51/3-R69S European rewound, no warranty
12 13 8 004 104R--$160.00--ignition coil R51/3-R69S reproduction 1 year warranty

Just spoke with Richard and he recommended the reproduction unit ... thanks again Kurt, your engagement is appreciated.

[schrader7032]

I didn't know there were two versions of it...I don't understand the increase in cost and you don't get a warranty for the European one. I checked and see that I likely bought the reproduction when I decided to replace mine. Mine is over 10 years old but only have about 5K miles on it. I also had hot start issues and was thinking it was the coil. Even after the replacement coil, I still had trouble starting it hot. I believe in my case the issue was the start procedure when hot. I've had some help figuring that out and so far I've been able to start it when hot like at a gas stop. No doubt, though, that the new coil has helped.

[JPower]

I believe in my case the issue was the start procedure when hot. I've had some help figuring that out and so far I've been able to start it when hot like at a gas stop. No doubt, though, that the new coil has helped.

Kurt- I am a fairly inexperienced R69S rider- I am doing some clean up/rebuilding stuff and getting ready to be back on the road. My bike has had some hard start issues that I think are more related to my starting procedure. Can you give some additional detail on the procedure stuff? Thanks!

JP

[schrader7032]

JP -

This has been discussed before and I think 8 people had 10 different procedures!

My R69S seems to be susceptible to being flooded, but at the same time, I have to give it a few extra tickles to start when cold. I'm sure there's a better way, but I've yet to find it!

For cold:
- open petcock and tickle each carb maybe to a count of 4-5
- with throttle closed, I kick through around 5-6 times; this pulls the air/fuel mixture into the engine
- something I've started to do is to kick to a point where I feel that I'm on compression stroke for either cylinder
- then with the throttle about 1/4 open (my built in cruise-control is nice for holding it there), ignition on, give it a good kick. Note, I have to be ready to recognize when the kicker will be locked up and I quickly use the clutch to allow the transmission to move and retry
- if I get some grumbles from the engine, I'm quick to stab at the ticklers while coaxing the throttle gently
- the bike runs rough for the first mile or so, which probably suggests too much gas
- if I don't catch it during this sequence, I'm likely going to have trouble getting it started...more on that later

For hot:
- anticipating a hot stop at a gas station, I turn off the petcock maybe 100 yds ahead of time to pull a little fuel from the bowls
- after gassing up, leave petcock closed, open throttle wide open, and kick through again about 6 times or so...this thins out the fuel/air mixture
- move throttle to closed and keep hands off; turn ignition on
- finding that kick just before compression, give the bike a good kick
- hopefully I get a rumble and I can just begin to work the throttle and hopefully get it to catch
- and don't forget to turn the petcock on...this will cause problems later DAMHIK

If after any of this, the bike won't start, then I just assume the bike is way flooded. Waiting a bit of time helps, but I usually just do the 5 or more kicks with throttle wide open to pull fresh air into the engine. Usually for hot situations, I can get it started. But if I have problems when cold, I've found I'm kind of screwed as I don't know if it's flooded or doesn't have enough gas. Often times, at home I just go back inside and try again after 30 minutes.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

[JPower]

Thanks Kurt- still figuring out my particular bike- and of course I am in the process of carb rebuilds so I am sure I will have to start the learning process all over again...

[malmac]

I didn't know there were two versions of it...I don't understand the increase in cost and you don't get a warranty for the European one. I checked and see that I likely bought the reproduction when I decided to replace mine. Mine is over 10 years old but only have about 5K miles on it. I also had hot start issues and was thinking it was the coil. Even after the replacement coil, I still had trouble starting it hot. I believe in my case the issue was the start procedure when hot. I've had some help figuring that out and so far I've been able to start it when hot like at a gas stop. No doubt, though, that the new coil has helped.

My assumption re the cost issue.

European job is rewound by a person in Europe.
Reproduction job is done in a factory in China - enough said.

That does not mean either is not done well but the labour costs would be very different.


Mal

[browne6070]

There is one other item that is often over looked on /2s. The condenser. Most, even NOS are over 40 years old now, and will fail when hot. A new one from a FLAPS or my choice, Vech, solved hot staring issues on 3 of my bikes. All had new coils. YMMV

[palica]

Condenser quality is really bad these days and it is not uncommon to change a condenser to find out the brand new one is faulty. Electronic condensers seems to be the way to go