Hoske tank on my R67/2

[schrader7032]

Check this page...might be able to find a way to move the seat back.

http://www.beemergarage.com/Tanks10.html

[The Plunger]

Kurt, I appreciate it but that mod will only work for the /2 seat type, plungers are an entirely different animal with no method of extending the frame. Now, if Hoske had made a seat frame to match...

Anyone out there have a original plunger tank for sale? PLEASE!

[schrader7032]

OK, Brian...I don't really know much about the plunger twins. Maybe I should have thought about the solo seat on my plunger R25/2.

[R68]

...large Hoske plunger tanks were designed to be used with the seldom seen plunger dual seat, and he even made a special dual seat for one version of a Hoske tank that required it. You can try to find a plunger dual seat, but pretty rare, I think?...might be good idea to run the throttle cables inboard of the frame, and under the tank?...didn't know fishtails would fit with the '54 headers???...maybe you could use post 1970 or pre 1936 badges, both I think a bit larger?...nice bike, lots attention to "correct"...

[bstratton]

Just measured my slash5 tank roundel. The screws are 2.25 inches on center. damn close to 58mm

No I don't have a metric ruler

[Miracleavn]

Brian,

I have been purchasing BWM parts and pieces this past year from overseas. I have just received my 1953 r51/3 from Turkey. I also have a 1967/3 as well. While I was there looking through the parts for sale I was able to scarf up several tanks. I believe they are r51s and r67s. I have four of them. The tool box opens to the side on two of them while the other two open from the top.

I’ll be back in the USA after the 15th of August, shoot me a pm or you can call me after the 15th.
931-801-8430. I’ll try to upload a couple of pics if possible. Or pm me your email address and I can show you the tanks. They are located in Nashville, Tennessee.

Just trying to help,
Ken Miracle

[The Plunger]

I installed my ginormous Hoske tank today and while it was a bit of a struggle to cram it on, amazingly, the mounting holes all matched up! Handle bars and seat had to be removed to get the original 4.5 gal tank off which is being donated to my R51/3 which I just sold :{ and with a combination of twisting, angling, lubing of the seat rubber and a liberal amount of cussing, the Hoske went in. I also have determined it's impossible to remove and install a tank without chipping the paint on something. I also thought I would have to change the risers to R68 style, but the originals work fine. I really don't like the look as much but until I get another original teardrop tank, it'll have to do. I don't fit in the seat very well and I see no way of shifting it back.
I soon discovered the original BMW emblems are too small! Are there emblems with holes spaced at 58mm? I would opt for adhesive ones as long as they are serif style. Also, the petcocks I have extend too far down and interfere with the carb cable boots. It's always something, eh?

Brian

[The Plunger]

I re routed the cables just before I saw your post! Great minds...
By dual seat, are you referring to the tandem seat mounted on the fender rack? Hmm, figured it was the same frame.

According to the Barrington manual, R67/2's beginning with 612001 had S bend pipes and lots of other changes. This has got to be wrong as R67/2 serial numbers BEGIN with 612001(1952 production). Mine is 612504 so it's very early production (May 8, 1952) with the tin shrouds and half hub duplex brakes. Since the R51/3 didn't go through the same changes until the Spring of 1953, I have to assume the book has the wrong serial listed for ALL the R67/2 changes. I am going to retrofit back to straight pipes, narrow center stand and non- cut out mufflers. I'm now not even sure it had duplex brakes! I believe the R51/3 data is correct but they really need to revisit the R67/2 stuff.

Brian

[The Plunger]

I got my crowded solo seat/Hoske tank issue resolved today. I was agonizing on how to stretch the Y yoke. My first thought was to cut it at the stem and weld in a 2-3" U shape piece to stand the seat out but then realized I could simply drill two new forward seat mounting holes 2" to the rear(the limit) and fabricate simple extenders at the tips of the Y where the seat bolts on. Duh. 3/16" x 1" steel from Lowes with holes 2" apart with oblong holes at rear for wiggle room. One could extend further than 2" but another bracket would have to be fabricated to fit the front dual holes and extend into the nook of the Y
Here are the results. Now I can ride without chaffing my delicate thighs.
Brian