New bike - some help please

[NMBeemer]

I am new to the club and have a few questions to ask of experienced airhead wrench-turners.

I am riding the one-owner 1984 R100RT that I just bought from Illinois to Albuquerque this weekend (after going through the bike and ferrying the wheels to a dealer for new tires - only thing I don't like doing myself).

In addition to bringing along a new clutch cable (if the old one doesn't frighten me into R&Ring it immediately), I'll have the OEM toolkit, some extra bulbs (H4 and 1156, the taillight is converted to LED), some oil... and that leads to my questions--which for perhaps obvious reasons I'd rather ask someone other than the PO:

- the bike has 63,000 miles and looks to have been well-maintained by the owner and has some upgrades (e.g., he replaced the electronic ignition, diode board & voltage regulator from motorrad elektrik at some point). But I'm wondering how much oil an '84 RT will likely use over the 1,300-mile trip? That is, should one be checking these machines at every fill up?

- I have read R. Fleischer's article on valve adjustment and naturally will do that in addition to fluid changes (engine, tranny, final drive, brakes). But I think I saw some discussion of ethanol and non-ethanol gas, and octane. Am I correct that these engines like premium, given their compression ratio? Also, are there gas station chains that offer non-ethanol gas in IL, MO, and KS? I've never driven in those states.

- just how deficient is the OEM tool kit? What are the obvious add-ons that I should throw into my duffel for the flight to Illinois?

Thanks very much.

[srankin]

Welcome to the club. So for a 1300 mile ride, IF things are in good order, you should see zero oil consumption. I change my oil every 2000 miles and see zero oil use. Since you don't know the bike, it is a good idea to check at least every couple of gas tank fills.
As for gas, I run the highest octane I can get preferably non ethanol, but 10% if it is all I can get. Here in NY 90 ethanol free is available in places. In a pinch, in your bike, you should be able to get by on regular low octane as BMW lowered compression ratios over all from 9.5 to one to 8.5 to one for EPA standards. LOL, in a pinch, but don't make a regular habit of it. 89 or above works best.

If you have a complete tool kit, you are pretty set as such a kit will be only for emergency repairs, even though it is a better kit than a lot of bikes on the market. Some people even use the tools for working on their bikes regularly, the tools are that good a quality.

Throw in an electrical test probe, you know the alligator clip on one end, needle on the other light bulb in the middle. A tire pressure gauge. As for spare parts the sky is the limit. I very much doubt in 1300 miles you will need anything if the bike is running properly when you pick it up and has been maintained. My luck with clutch cables mean I carry one all the time with me. Extra parts get loaded when I am taking a long trip.

Good luck, enjoy the ride, let us know how you make out. St.

[NMBeemer]

Thanks for the prompt reply. It's looking soggy in west Kansas/eastern NM over the weekend, but otherwise may be fairly nice behind the RT's fairing.

Okay, good deal--I'll check the oil occasionally, not obsessively, on the trip. Maybe the first two stops and then taper off...

Very well--I suspected as much, re: gas. If I remember to keep a note, I'll post after the trip as to which gas station chains in IL, MO, and KS seemed to have a choice re: ethanol-free gas.

Good idea on the test lamp (I've long had one for static timing on my 1951 Harley FL; the '71 Bonny cafe bike I just built (see pic) has a Boyer Bransden ignition, so a lamp is unnecessary for initial timing). Yeah, duh... a tire gauge! (Little Homer Simpson lapse there...) I'll add those things to the clutch cable and bulbs--thank you.

Fuses? Is it true they're crammed in behind the headlamp bulb on this bike? I'm hoping the PO has a few, as no way I'll get them delivered to his place before Friday... have you ever had one blow on your RT?

The bike has been stationary for a while, so in addition to new tires, I'll be changing all fluids (including brake fluid), adjusting valves, checking carb diaphragms and float needle valves as necessary (the PO apparently has these extra parts & an oil filter kit new in boxes), lubing cables, tightening fasteners. I've had a new battery and air filter drop-shipped to his house.

I'll report back next week on what I hope was an uneventful ride, and add a photo or two...

[srankin]

The RT fairing is pretty nice for fall winter and spring weather. A bit warm for summer but livable.

Have I blown fuses, yes, I am afraid I have. BUT, usually after I have been fussing with something in either the turn signals or taillights. The head light is not fused. Check Amazon for the fuses, I get them from there for a lot less than the dealership and sometimes it is amazing how fast they show up. Busman is the best company for fuses.

There is no lubing cables, only the pivot points. Cables are teflon lined, if they are working fine, they are good. The worst wear spot on the clutch cable is at the handlebar barrel pivot. 99% of the time is where mine fail.

The test probe will help if something quits electrically along the way which I doubt as long as the wiring on the bike looks good. Ask the previous owner when the last time the transmission input shaft was greased. Not to say you need to do it to get home but, if he can't answer with a mileage, put it on your winter list of things to do.

here is the link to fuses, St. Bussmann BP/GBC-8-RP GBC Series Automotive 'Torpedo' Fuse for German vehicles (8 Amp), 5 Pack at Amazon

[schrader7032]

The '84 model was designed to run on unleaded fuel. But if you think you want something ethanol free gas, try this:

https://www.pure-gas.org/

Note also that the '84 model ('81-84) has the poor seat metallurgy in the heads which didn't transfer heat well into the heads. The result was that the heat was retained in the valves and the valve faces could begin to tulip over time. The enemy is heat and the RT will generate more heat because of the fairing and the bigger engine. Keep an eye on the valve clearances once you get settled with the bike.

[srankin]

Kurt brings up a good point about that era of bikes, valve seat recession. I was going to add this to the list of things to look for after you own the bike, but Kurt beat me too it.

So a question for the Previous owner would be "have the heads been rebuilt?" Now depending on how he rode the bike and when he adjusted the valves he could have missed the problem. Good valves should stay in adjustment for at least 15,000 miles. One of the sure signs they are out of adjustment is poor idling. I adjust my valves at 15,000 miles regularly, I get a hint of time to adjust in the bike starts to idle rough if I don't do them at the 15,000 mile mark.

BMW did in some of the bikes make modifications in the factory to solve this problem so not all bikes have the problem. My 84 needed the heads done at 40,000, and since then I have had them done again at over 150,000 miles.

So, if the bike has the valves adjusted and the interval becomes smaller than 15,000, and gets worse and less, it is time to rebuild. Maybe the previous owner had the heads done in the 63,000 miles he put on and had them done by someone who knows what they are doing so it may not be a problem for you. Fingers crossed.

One key thing about airheads is that the first thing to check when there is poor performance is valve adjustment and health. LOL, you are lucky you don't have damned points to worry about and the BMW ignition system is very robust needing few adjustments to timing during the life of the bike, the second thing to worry about is almost never a problem. In my 245,000 miles, I have only adjusted timing when I have replaced timing chains or pulled the front engine cover off to repaint the black trim. Carbs are pretty reliable and as long as fresh gas is used and the bike is used, they can go a long way before any rebuilding is needed. Of course cables stretch and an occasional tweak to the adjustment will be needed as well as when they wear out. The item that does wear out over time leading to a dramatic loss of gas milage is the needles and seats will were out but that normally takes a long time to happen.

LOL, so to get the most out of the bike, don't let it sit, ride it and keep up with adjustments and oil changes. My old dealer had over 500,000 miles on his R90S before he wrecked it and aside from normal wear and tear never had much trouble with it. St.

[NMBeemer]

Gentlemen:

Thank you for all of this. It turns out that NAPA carries those fuses, part no. GBC8, and doesn't want much for them, either. The local NAPA in the small town where I'm picking up the bike even said they could get them by noon, same day.

As I may have mentioned, I'm bringing along extra H4 and 1156 bulbs, so good to go there.

Great news on the non-lube cables. I am not bringing along throttle cables but will double-check the barrel pivots--especially at the lever. The clutch cable gets here today, so will go into my luggage, along with my brake-bleeder, etc. I may just replace the clutch cable if it's anything but buttery smooth. Better than mid-ride at night...

I will ask about the tranny input shaft splines. I'm bringing along a small tube of moly-infused grease that R. Fleischer recommends, but that's for the rear wheel splines: I don't think I'lll have time to pull the tranny and do the input shaft. For sure, I'll do it when I get home, along with lots of other stuff.

Valves: understood--thank you both. I had planned on checking the clearances and will record where they are, and will do the same next time I adjust them. R. Fleischer has shorter intervals in his article, unless I misread it--but I get the point: checking more frequently with 63,000-mile heads can't hurt. I typically cut my own valve seats and R&R guides, but have the machine shop do inserts. So, I'll do a leak down test when I get the bike home and assess from there.

Ignition and carbs: excellent, thank you. As I may have mentioned, my plan is to inspect the diaphragms and needle valves, and probably replace the latter along with float bowls gaskets as a matter of course. The former as needed.

This bike will not sit. I bought it primarily for running into town--a 40-mile round trip--to stop pilling the miles onto my car (which I want to be the last I ever buy), and of course for touring, as I've said. My Oregon cycling friends are already lobbying me for when I'll be visiting next year.

I'll almost certainly be selling the '51 Panhead, which will fund all of the parts this bike will ever need, I would think.

P.S. - here is a very dusty photo of the bike from when the ad was placed. He's throwing in the tank bag. Stainless exhaust, I think, fork brace, and Brown side stand. Braided hoses a few years back, too.

[srankin]

That is a very nice looking bike and I think it will suit you well. St.

[NMBeemer]

Thanks, I think you're right.

I'm embarrassed to say how little I paid for it, but with new tires, the flight and hotel rooms, it evens out a bit--though even then less than comparable bikes I've seen. The PO lowered the price quite a bit because of my very modest retirement status, and he didn't want it going to a broker.

I've got another thread in the general discussion board, re: making the trip, and have just been reassured by an experienced RT rider from the UK about these bikes in foul weather--which I will definitely face toward the middle and western parts of Kansas. Looks like clear first day, wet the second, and nice the third.

[NMBeemer]

Question: is this the correct accessory plug to charge my cell phone? That is, the USB plug and voltage/amperage are fine. But did I get the right configuration to plug into the RT's sockets?

BTW, where are those located?