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Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2022 4:46 pm
by skychs
I put a big dent in the wiring harness yesterday and today. Its a little complicated because Im using a new harness but so far so good. Some of the new wires are different colors AND different gauges.
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2022 7:45 pm
by wa1nca
upper engine bracket goes in front of the frame bracket so you can tilt the engine forward to remove the gearbox for service
If not you also have to remove the gas tank
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2022 10:45 pm
by skychs
Thanks Tommy,
I appreciate the time you and others take to look over our posts and answer all our questions. This is my 3rd build and I could not have done it without y'all.
The transmission is still out but I hope to be installing it soon by tipping the motor forward.
. I will move the frame bracket tomorrow.
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2022 11:27 pm
by Rodolfo850
Nice job!!!
I just suggest to make a modification on ignition coil that will make your life easy while setting timing:
Cut wire end on left side that comes from coil and goes to ignition point upper bolt (5.5mm) that holds wire from condenser too. With the wire end that has been cut from coil, joint with orange wire that comes from headlight bucket and grounds magneto on same bolted connector.
So at time when need to connect a lamp or Aircraft spruce magneto timing light, will be easer to remove wire from the bolted connector, that removing from the top of ignition points.
regards
Rodolfo
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2022 6:22 am
by wa1nca
yes the condenser wire can also be moved to the terminal on the ignition coil
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17936
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2022 5:11 pm
by skychs
wa1nca wrote: ↑Wed Dec 21, 2022 7:45 pm
upper engine bracket goes in front of the frame bracket so you can tilt the engine forward to remove the gearbox for service
If not you also have to remove the gas tank
I tried moving the engine bracket in front of the frame bracket but it didn't work. I loosened every thing to include the two nuts attached to the top of the engine so every thing was loose. As I slid the bracket to the rear the slope in the frame keeps it from hanging straight down. No matter how I did it the two would not line up. When I looked at the original photos from the disassembly the bike came to me with the frame bracket in the front.
Guys ... thanks for the information about setting up the coil. Thats next on the list.
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2022 7:43 pm
by Tinkertimejeff
Its is a nice restoration complete with advise and tips. I don't know for sure what the orientation of the top engine brackets were from the factory but I do know: You can simply loosen the frame tube clamping part, turn it a few degrees either way, slide it out of the way, remove the bracket that's bolted (acorn nuts) to the motor top and tilt the engine up to remove the transmission. I have always gone to some of the early photos in the Clymers and factory manuals when I had a question on wire routing, brackets and bolt type and orientation. ??? Does the bolt insert front to back, protect the threads and cotter pin or does it go in back to front as shown in one of the pictures? Its might just be a matter of what fits best. That top tube just below the frame back bone changed from the early Earles Fork bikes up to the later ones as far as its position and spacing from that back bone.
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2022 10:00 am
by skychs
Tinkertimejeff wrote: ↑Thu Dec 22, 2022 7:43 pm
Its is a nice restoration complete with advise and tips. I don't know for sure what the orientation of the top engine brackets were from the factory but I do know: You can simply loosen the frame tube clamping part, turn it a few degrees either way, slide it out of the way, remove the bracket that's bolted (acorn nuts) to the motor top and tilt the engine up to remove the transmission. I have always gone to some of the early photos in the Clymers and factory manuals when I had a question on wire routing, brackets and bolt type and orientation. ??? Does the bolt insert front to back, protect the threads and cotter pin or does it go in back to front as shown in one of the pictures? Its might just be a matter of what fits best. That top tube just below the frame back bone changed from the early Earles Fork bikes up to the later ones as far as its position and spacing from that back bone.
Most of the literature I have seen shows the bolt going in front to back. Its good to hear the frame back bone has changed over the years. That may explain my issue.
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2022 10:18 am
by skychs
Exhaust ....
It's time to start thinking about the exhaust. The headers that came on the bike are chrome. They're not perfect but they cleaned up fairly well and there is not rust. With chrome headers do I need to stay with a chrome exhaust or can I install a new set of SS? The difference is cost is only around $50. Im also considering a set of Hoske exhaust. I'd like to get a little more sound out of the bike. TIA
Chuck
Re: 1967 R69S restoration
Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2022 12:04 pm
by r67boxer
Although clearly a different bike, I put a pair of Hoske performance/sport mufflers on my '82 R100T. They are quite loud compared to the OEM. I'm not sure I would install another pair although they look great.
Kevin