Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners

Per Snowbum https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm:
Rear drive to driveshaft housing:
35 ft-lbs is what I use on these 4 nuts on the twin shock models, which use a paper gasket there, without any sealant applied. There are differing specifications for these nuts in the various literature.

Thanks guys ....
Most of the leaks are now fixed. I did however need to use a small amount of Permatex to get everything sealed up.

The oil pan was a different story. I found 6 stripped bolts out of 14. They all required M6x1.0 helicoils. It wasn't fun but they all went in without an issue and seem to be holding torque. New gasket installed .... so far dry as a bone.

For final touches .... I installed new LED bulbs in the headlight, parking and tail lights. Huge difference. I installed a front brake line holding wire. I took apart, cleaned, polished and installed a new rubber O-ring in the headlight lens. I installed rubber boots on top of the adjustable rear shocks to keep the water out. Installed new carb tubes and SS clamps.

The only thing left is a timing chain. We are getting very close.

List of what I did ..........

Partial restoration .......
: Powder coated frame, luggage rack, hand controls, license plate mount. Robbie at KBM Powdercoating.
: Painted tanks, fenders, taillight, headlight bucket and ears. Mike McCauley.
: Hand painted pin stripes on tanks and fenders. Mike Hall.

The bike was completely taken apart for paint and powder coating.

1: Rebuilt front forks. New bushings and seals. Installed new Progressive springs. Installed original anti dive springs. Added 10wt fork oil.
2: Installed and balanced new tires. Tubes and wheel strips in good shape. Cleaned steel wheels. Rear wheel needs to be trued.
3: Installed new tachometer/speedo and new ignition key set inside headlight bucket. I removed the original ignition circuit board. Installed new turn signal indicator. New chrome key slider top.
4: Installed new US handlebars with new throttle, clutch, rubber grips and front brake cable. Installed new front brake cable wire holder.
5: Installed new /5 seat. Fabricated new rear pin.
6: Repaired cracked and broken tool box.
7: Cleaned and rebuilt both carbs. New O-rings, diaphragms and gaskets.
8: Replaced rear drive shaft.
9: Cleaned and polished engine, brake hubs, rear brake assembly.
10: Installed new Air filter, Oil filter and spark plugs.
11: Replaced broken turn signal lens, new lens bolts. New/used reflectors on ears and fenders.
12: Installed new stainless steel bolt kits where applicable.
12: New/used hubcaps.
13: Replaced right cylinder push rod seals because of leaking.
14: Installed new front fork lock and cover.
15: Installed new foot peg rubber X 4.
16: Installed new Ikon rear adjustable suspension. Added rubber boot to protect shock adjustment.
17: Installed new trans/swing arm boot.
18: Installed new steering head and new swing arm bearings and seals.
19: Powder coated and restored both engine badges.
20: New tank badges, rubber seals, petcocks, rubber knee pads and fuel cap on the large tank.
21: Inspected and repaired main wiring harness. New rubber cable organizer under tank.
22: Replaced all fluids .... Engine, Trans, Drive shaft and final drive. Valvoline VR1 20-50. Valvoline 75-90 gear oil.
23: Installed new/used black exhaust, cross over and headers.
24: Installed new front bearing seal.
25: Installed new/used handlebar mirrors.
26: Installed new rear mud fender and BMW badge.
27: Engine .... Check timing, set the valves, sync the carbs, Torqued the cylinder heads and covers.
28: Adjust front and back brakes. Pads are Ok but will need to be replaced soon.
29: Installed new fuel lines and fuel filters
30: Cleaned and rebuilt all four fuel petcocks.
31: Disassembled, cleaned and polished headlight reflector and glass lens. Installed new rubber O-ring on glass. Added two new additional headlight retaining clips.
32: Installed new LED bulbs ... headlight, taillight and front parking light.
33: Installed new/used steering damper middle plate.
34: Installed new drive shaft/final drive gasket.
35: Installed 4 new drive shaft/transmission bolts and new rubber boot.
36: Installed new carb tubes and clamps.
37: Installed new timing chain, spring, gasket and chain tensioner.
38: Installed new engine RPM cable clamping bolt.
39: Removed oil pan, cleaned, inspected and installed "6" (M6 X 1.0) Helicoils. Installed new oil pan gasket.
40: Clean, inspected and lubed clutch rod assembly. Installed new felt.

When you get all done, you will be able to ride for a long time without problems. Enjoy. St.

Great information provided. The photos are really helpful for my partial restoration of a 1971 R75/5. Thanks.

Short boring ride for a test run.......

https://youtu.be/NmYZvEg3Ig8

And you made it back!! What sort of clearances do you have for the valves? I know if you can't hear the valves ticking away, that's a problem. But in your case, they were quite evident...seemed loud to me.

When we replaced two of the push rod seals we re-torqued the heads, checked the timing and set the valves to .004 intake and .008 exhaust. Clymer M502 page 106 was my source.

Sometimes videos make them sound different. In person they don't seem too loud. Do you think I should go back in to check them?
chuck

Those numbers sound OK. Certainly as part of any overhaul, the break-in process recommends a number of head bolt retorques and recheck of clearancws.

schrader7032 wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 09, 2021 3:28 pm

Those numbers sound OK. Certainly as part of any overhaul, the break-in process recommends a number of head bolt retorques and recheck of clearancws.

I agree. Im constantly going over all the nuts and bolts. If the sound changes I will certainly check them again. You should have heard it before the new timing chain went in.