Page 10 of 10

Issues

Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 5:01 pm
by skychs
I took the bike out today for a longer run. Ended up around 45-50 miles. I discovered an issue with the neutral light.

The neutral light is backwards. When its in gear it lights up. When its in neutral the light is out. Its a new switch. Thinking the two wires that connect to the switch were reversed I swapped them over. Still does the same thing. Any ideas?

The clutch needs some fine tuning and the front suspension needs some help but the bike is solid, quiet and tracks a straight line very well.

There are two types of

Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 5:26 pm
by schrader7032
There are two types of neutral switches...one pushes in to make contact, the other pushes out to make contact. The "innie" (#23-----153) was used up to the beginning of the '76 models while the "outie" (#61-----097) was used beginning with the 9/75 models. If you have the wrong one, it would react as you suggest.

Switch

Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 7:20 pm
by skychs
There are two types of neutral switches...one pushes in to make contact, the other pushes out to make contact. The "innie" (#23-----153) was used up to the beginning of the '76 models while the "outie" (#61-----097) was used beginning with the 9/75 models. If you have the wrong one, it would react as you suggest.

Thank you sir. Sounds like that may be the issue. I will keep you posted.

Neutral switch

Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2018 8:28 pm
by skychs
As expected ... the neutral switch was swapped out and solved the problem. All is well.

While I was there I fixed the leaking final drive boot by simply tightening the clamps. After that the bike got its first bath to clean up all the dirt and grime. What a pleasure it is to ride.

In the next day or two I will install the front fairing. I think I have all the bugs worked out in regards to the front suspension and front end.



fairing

Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 7:19 pm
by skychs
The front fairing went on today without issues. Well sort of. I had some issues with the clock and volt meter. Apparently I broke off the ground connection on the clock when I pulled everything apart. It took hours to figure everything out. The physical installation of the fairing was much easier than coming off. Anyway, everything is on. I followed these directions.

To avoid cracking the fairing when stretching it over the second turn-signal stalk, please follow the instructions below:
- Place the black rubber washer on the stalks and bring it onto the thicker portion of stalk.
- Install fairing on one of the stalks ( the hole of the fairing will reach past the skinny part of the stalk) This is required to allow the fairing to stretch over the other stalk. The fairing will only stretch by very little before it cracks, believe me, mine caused a small crack because I thought the U-shape washer belongs on the outside, NOT SO!
-Next, place eccentric washer over stalks into fairing on both sides.
- Make adjustments to the eccentric washer and secure the top brackets
- Move the black rubber washer (on the inside of the fairing) and slip it over the eccentric washer on both sides. There is only 4mm of the eccentric washer poking out so just wiggle it in place.
- Install the U-shaped washer, from the top, over the black rubber washer on the inside. This secures the U-shape washer to ride up against the wider part/edge of the stalk.
- Place thick metal washer on the outside up against the eccentric washer.
- Install turn signals ( PLEASE note that the turn signals have different depths so make sure you install the correct signal casings to make sure the clamp will secure properly.
- Voila, job done! Applause
- The U-shape washer is designed for a specific reason to be installed after the fairing is in place. This washer can not be installed first as it creates to much washer thickness so stretching the fairing is impossible. The fairing needs to filt over the thicker portion of the stalk initially.
See final pictures of inside picture and an inside picture taken from underneath showing the U-shaped washer. The outside pic shows the thick 3mm washer between eccentric washer.fairing and turn-signal.
If the 3mm washer is on the inside, the fairing would not have been able to stretch over the stalk. If you did however, I am surprised your fairing has not cracked below the hole as you pull on it. The fairing can not be stretched 2" !!!! It will crack!!!

Worked like a charm.

The only thing left is to figure out the electrical wiring to the front turn signals. Ok ... then the tank and tail BMW badges.


photos

Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 8:02 am
by skychs
Thought I would add some photos. The badges are on. The new windshield is on. Everything seems to be falling in place. The only real issue left are the front turn signals. The PO wired all the signals as running lights with dual element bulbs. All the lights in the rear work fine. The two front signals are still giving me trouble. One blinks but will not run. The other runs but will not blink. Grrrrrrrr

After I figure that out i will run it over to my local mechanic guru and get hime to fine tune everything. I have almost 500 miles on the bike since restoration and Im loving every mile.

Oh, I added the front fork brace that came on the bike but I haven't been able to check it out on the road yet.

Looks very nice! Daytona

Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 10:14 am
by khittner
Looks very nice! Daytona Orange is simply the way they were meant to be.

Last photos

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 5:52 pm
by skychs
To finish the restoration I took some photos today.


Couple more

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 5:53 pm
by skychs
Enjoy

Re: 1975 BMW R90S Restoration

Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2020 8:16 am
by skychs
Update on the R90S Restoration

The bike has been wonderful to ride. No issue since the restoration. I finally broke down and purchased a nice set of SS exhaust. It really completes the bike.