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1980 R100RT Brake rebuild questions
1980 R100RT Brake rebuild questions
So...anyone done this job before and can help us out? Also...where is the best place to buy brake mcyl rebuild kits? Actually, since we're so new to this 42 yr old bike and will need more parts eventually, can anyone point us to reputable vendors for parts? I've been looking on Ebay, but .....never know if you can trust people there.
Thanks in advance for any help/ideas/directions from forum members. Tom and Russ
- srankin
- Posts: 1081
- Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 8:45 pm
- Location: Spencerport, NY USA
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Re: 1980 R100RT Brake rebuild questions
Max BMW, their online microfiches are top notch and up to date on parts available. Also, they carry or can get a ton of parts for most airheads: https://www.maxbmw.com
EME, Euro Motoelectrics: https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/.
Boxer Two Valve: https://www.boxer2valve.com
Siebenrock in Germany: https://www.siebenrock.com/
Motobins in the UK: https://www.motobins.co.uk
Motoworks in the UK: https://www.motorworks.co.uk
Motorrad Electrik: http://www.motoelekt.com
I am not going to comment on official BMW parts versus aftermarket. Good luck and welcome to the airhead world. St.
Re: 1980 R100RT Brake rebuild questions
It is a Brembo brand part.
Basically use a drill bit or thin barrel screwdriver to push out the piston from the open end (threaded end) of the m/c. There is no circlip at the piston end of the m/c. The seal on the piston end is pressure fit (one time use crush washer) and holds the piston in place.
There is a proper procedure and orientation when assembling the new seal on the piston end of the m/c, which Brooks covers in excellent detail as well. Note the seal is a "one time" deal, so get it right the first time. It can be difficult to get the seal/washer to stay in place if you F it up the first time. It helps to find a socket and use it as a driver when putting the new seal assembly in .
EME almost always has the best price and fastest shipping.
You'll need to check if you have the 15mm (early) or 14mm (later) m/c. 1980 was a transition year for that part, at least as the MAX parts fiche notes.
The m/c should be stamped with one of the numbers AND when you get the piston out you can tell which one it is by comparing pics of the piston you have with the rebuild kits on EME...the later 14 has a smaller/thinner end where the spring fits (if I recall) than the earlier 15mm.
The bleeding process can be tricky and getting a good lever feel, can take some time. You might try reverse bleeding with a syringe and/ or applying some over night pressure to the pedal (wedge between the brake pedal and foot rest) to force out any remaining air after you bleed the system. That last step can make a difference, especially with reducing the pedal travel and taking out some of the "soft feel".
Cheers!
Re: 1980 R100RT Brake rebuild questions
Cheers! indeed.....
- srankin
- Posts: 1081
- Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2017 8:45 pm
- Location: Spencerport, NY USA
- Been thanked: 21 times
Re: 1980 R100RT Brake rebuild questions
Yes, a cross over year for BMW can be confusing, lol try sorting out a wiring question some times.
Brook's videos can be found at:
https://brook.reams.me
St.
Re: 1980 R100RT Brake rebuild questions
Anyhow, ordering parts from EME and on to the next step in the process....will keep you updated. Thanks again for replies!
Russ and Tom
Re: 1980 R100RT Brake rebuild questions
The drum rear made a triumphant return in the mid 80's and lasted to the end of the run.