Shock Absorber

[brettironbutt]

Hello everyone! I am enclosing a movie that shows that my rear shocks whine when I bounce on the back. This started on my last trip, and I only notice it when I am standing on the bike while at rest. (Stop sign or stoplight). My assumption is that this is not something I can fix through lubrication or cleaning.... but I do not know how to test the shocks for serviceability. The rear shocks are a combo of an absorber and a spring. I am a big guy (6'5", and heavy), so my guess is that I need new shocks.

A few questions for the group, if any of you have experience or opinions:
1. How do I test my current shocks/springs?
2. If I need new shocks, I see that SALIS has two types, HAGON and ATOS. Is there a better brand?
3. For the springs, if I need new ones, should I use solo or side car? Again, it would seem that the stiffer was better for me.


Thanks for your thoughts!
Brett

[metoo]

First check the rubber doughnuts condition, there should be 5 of them each side

[weh8127]

When I put together my R 60/2 I installed a set of W-P shocks that I bought from Scottie Sharp and sidecar springs. I'm 230# and as a solo bike (before I added the sidecar) they were just right and good with a passenger as well.

[cwf]

Assuming you're still out there, heavy laden, on rough roads, you can tell if the springs are inadequate by whether or not the rear suspension bottoms out, ie reaches the maximum movement and thumps you in the backside. If it doesn't and you don't spend much of your driving time with all that luggage, then the springs are OK, a bit tired because they're old but still OK.

The noise is the springs rubbing. As they compress, they rotate a bit or else they are rubbing against the damper. A quick solution might be a squirt of lubricant under the covers.

I assume you can tell if the dampers are OK. If not, any garage mechanic will give them a quick push and tell you. If they are completely shot, when you go over a bump, you'll feel the back end continue to bounce.

If you're in a 3rd world country, dampers are far down the list and you'll see the back wheels of cars bouncing up and down. At slow speeds (under 50mph) that's no real problem.

Charlie.

[DIS295]

In case you've never tested shocks before, they should compress with a small amount of resistance but expanding them should be much harder. Easy compression, harder rebound.

[brettironbutt]

I am still waiting on the bike's return from Chile, so it will be a bit before I can diagnose. But I did want to thank everyone for the input so far. What I have learned is that I will have to disassemble and test the parts first, (instead of ordering replacement parts now....)

Again, thanks!

[Flx48]

Hi Brett-
First, congratulations on your successful adventure; your interesting updates allowed us to vicariously enjoy the trip with you so thanks!
 
As for the rear shock assemblies, aside from the great suggestions already made, I'll add a few things you might check out before removing them for inspection.
On both sides, see that the silent block (that the lower mounting bolt goes through) is in good condition, that the rubber itself is intact enough to still be holding the mounting bolt centered in the rubber.
On the right side shock (rear drive side) check that the lower shock mount has been assembled correctly; with the 3mm thick spacer washer installed on the mounting bolt between the rear end housing and the silent block.
Sometimes that washer gets left out, or swapped for the thinner one that is intended for under the bolt head on the outside of the assembly.
When that spacer washer is missing from its intended location, the aluminum spring shroud can be rubbing on the frame shock tower, sometimes enough to wear through it.

Along the same line of thinking, check that the swingarm is centered in the frame at the frame bearing locations.
The gap between swingarm and frame should measure the same on both sides.
Sometimes it is not centered, either from casual installation, or from necessity if the frame is distorted enough to require the swingarm being off center, in order to keep the driveshaft centered in the swingarm tunnel.
The swingarm being off center can cause spring/shock/shroud to rub or simply bind a bit with each other.

Regarding the spring's soft/hard preload adjustment arm interference with the fuel can-
Your issue reminded me of the similar issue when installing Enduro saddlebags; the bags sat close enough to the frame that the spring adjustment lever could not be swung out to engage the stiffer setting.
The installation directions gave three ways to deal with this-

Cut the levers short to 3/4" long, or
Heat levers with a torch, and bend them down far enough to clear the bag, or 
Interchange the shocks, so the levers would face in, instead of out, when put on the stiffer setting

Stanley (the maker) said cutting was the preferred method used by dealers, and we've seen enough of them chopped over the years to agree that was done a lot.
My own preference with my bags was to interchange the levers and leave them in the stiffer setting, and in doing so keep the levers intact.

Shock absorbers-
The ATOS I believe are the repops of the original Boge shocks, and said to be as good as the originals, which have lasted a good long time, and good value at around 400US a full set.
The Works Performance have not been made in a number of years, not since Gil passed; his daughter was contemplating a run of them if there was enough interest, but I believe her resurrected firm, Worx Shocks, has ceased doing business.
Hagon shocks are available at around 700US a set, they are an emulsion shock (gas and oil) so a quick reacting shock, if a touch harsh.
Ikon are a twin tube oil shock, around 750US a set, and as the successor of Koni shocks, quite similar, though lacking the adjustability of the original.
I run Koni shocks, which I installed in '74 on the s/c bike (found them a bit harsh for my liking on the solo) and in these past 50 years have felt no need to come up off the softest setting, and so don't view the Ikon's lack of adjustability in the current iteration an issue. 
Check your own shocks' condition as advised by DIS, also feel for any hiccups as the rod is stroked in and out.
The resistance should feel smooth/steady all the way in, (lighter) and all the way out; (heavier) any ratchety movement is cause for concern.

My view of the spring's job is as absorbing the road bumps while also not bottoming out, and the shock's job as containing spring movement to a single cycle while also keeping the tire in continuous contact with the road surface.
Too stiff or loose with either of these components will both jar your body and/or break contact between tire and road surface.
So one's goal is to match the choice of components with the road surfaces most used, along with one's own riding style.
Best-
George