Just acquired a 1978 R100s and this old body does not like the riding position. I have read that people use K75 handlebars for a more upright riding position. Max shows a low and a taller handlebar, which one will fit under the s fairing ?
the K bar swap was usually for the RS bars which were low and shorter than the stock S bars. There is a bit more pull back and raise compared to the stock RS bars and they didn't hit the RS fairing. Without a pair to check, I am not sure if you will gain anything on your S bike.
The next step up from S bars on airheads is the RT bars aside from the GS bikes they are the most upright widest bars. they should I think clear the S fairing but I don't know anyone who has gone that direction.
The problem with using them may be in the switch gear and cables on your S are too short to fit. Now I am not 100% sure about the cables but I am pretty sure about the switch gear wires.
You might find out lengths from the microfiche at Max or talk to Norm at EME. Who knows, they might have a better answer for you. Good luck and let us know what you find out. St.
Owner of a 84, R80RT and 79 R100RT being stripped naked for summer, turned Into a frame up restoration,
EME has brought back a lot of switch gear that was NLA at BMW, take a look at their website and see what they carry. I just bought left and right switches for my RT to naked bike project. I ordered the long RT gear. St.
Owner of a 84, R80RT and 79 R100RT being stripped naked for summer, turned Into a frame up restoration,
I have decided to go with the "Boxer2Valve" Touring handlebars, they are 3" wider and the setback/rise is an 1" or more. I also tested clearance with the S fairing and it looks good. (All the painted parts have been removed for pinstriping) I am using 79 RT Clutch, brake and throttle cables and lengthened the control wires 5". The color coded terminal board really made the process enjoyable and fool proof. While in the headlight bucket I found a wire that has defiantly seen some heat and will need replacement, it is the wire for the voltmeter and its crispy all the way to the meter. Any thought what could have caused this ? The meter appears to be working and it's been verified with my Fluke digital meter after the voltage regulator replacement.
A crispy voltage meter wire? Man to crisp it means some serious amperage passed through to heat the wire. In my mind's eye I can't see any way that would happen. I should say the only way I could see it happening is with a short. Problem is I can't think of anything in the dashboard that it could short to, A real mystery. Let us know if you find something. St.
Owner of a 84, R80RT and 79 R100RT being stripped naked for summer, turned Into a frame up restoration,
I have ordered a complete harness #61 12 1 357 591, not chancing a short inside the harness.After closer examination the crispy wire is red so it it must go to the clock , I will connect the clock to a spare battery and see how it behaves. The corresponding red wires off connection point #30 also go to the ignition switch and starter relay, all those wires seem good. Still in the getting to know the bike phase.