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R67 electrical problem
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R67 electrical problem
The bike is an R67 and it is restored and runs great. It has been modified to a 12 volt system with one of the slap-on alternators from Benchmark Works, has a fuse added to the positive lead, and also updated with a wiring harness that accommodates a brake light with the associated brake switch and 2 filament bulb. All bulbs are updated to 12v.
The first symptom of this problem occurred after I removed the rear wheel to replace the brake pads. After reassembling, I had a problem with the brake light not coming on when I pressed the brake pedal. Then, when I was testing it by pressing the brake lever, the rear running light and headlight also stopped working. My first thought was a short in the brake light switch. I have tested the switch and even tried another switch in its place with no change. My next thought was a short in the wiring through the rear fender since I had lifted that to get at the wheel, but I have used an ohmmeter to check continuity from the horn to brake switch, brake switch to the taillight and back to the ground and everything seems to be fine.
When I inserted the key, the neutral light and generator light would come on as they should. When I turned the key, either for running lights or for headlights, the indicator lights went off and nothing came on. If I moved the key back to the center position, I got the neutral and generator lights back. The headlight, taillight, horn, and brake light did not come on.
I was frustrated but followed wires and tried to check the circuits (there aren’t that many on the bike) for good connections, fuses (even fewer), and bulbs. The problem reoccurred several times. I found a loose wire connection at the sidecar plug and tightened it, replaced a burned-out tail light bulb, replaced the positive wire fuse, the 8v torpedo fuse in the headlight bucket. I finally thought I had everything working and took it out for a ride but when I came back, I found the lights had stopped working again, and this time the bike also would not cut off when the key was removed – I had to pull the spark plug wires. I am at wits end. I feel like an intermittent ground must be occurring.
I did find a post from 2010 or so (sorry, can’t find it right now) that described an almost identical problem and he concluded it was his ignition switch plate and replaced it (no further posts to confirm if this fixed the problem). I am trying to check everything else I can before doing this since it seems to be a real PITA with the folding tabs, etc. I am going to try lubricating the ignition switch with a drop or two of light oil (open to ideas of a good lubricant to use) but I don’t have much else to try.
Looking closely at the switch, I see what may be causing the problem. The arm that the switch touches when the key is pushed down is not parallel to the side of the switch so the connection points are not making a good connection. The red outline in the picture shows where the arm is. I can move the arm with my fingers but it will not stay in place and there does not seem to be a way to tighten this on the terminal. Could this cause my intermittent problems? Is there good fix for this if so.
Again, I am a complete idiot when it comes to electrics (I had to find a post with step-by-step instructions on using an ohmmeter before I could check continuity) so any help is welcome.
‘51 R67 w/ Steib s350, ‘71 R75/5
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Re: R67 electrical problem
Recently, I was helping a friend troubleshoot his car, with no electrical power when the key was turned on. The battery had recently been replaced, there were 12.6V across the battery terminals, the cables and connections were clamped on tight and looked very clean upon initial inspection. Yet, somehow, electricity was not making it from the (+) battery terminal into the (+) battery cable. We cleaned the inside of the cable clamp and the terminal post and everything worked again.
- vechorik1373
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Re: R67 electrical problem
Do you have a soldering gun? Take a piece of sandpaper and clean the flat brass plate and the base of the round brass terminal, push the plate over to it's proper position, and flux and solder the post to the plate in one spot. Don't go overboard, just solder it to the post in one spot that should keep it from rotating.
Technical Adviser, Former owner, Bench Mark Works
662 312 2838 cell 9 am to 4pm CST PLEASE!
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Re: R67 electrical problem
‘51 R67 w/ Steib s350, ‘71 R75/5
- vechorik1373
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- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:00 am
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Re: R67 electrical problem
Depending on your skill level, it can be done with the bucket in place. Before you attempt this, disconnect the battery!
remove the wire on that terminal, before you attempt anything. Granted, it would be easier to do with the bucket removed.
Do the smart thing, and take a good photo with your phone of the the board with all the wires in place. You'll have a reference to look at when you reassemble. You can remove the headlight hi/low horn switch from the bar, and leave it wired and take the bucket off with it.
Technical Adviser, Former owner, Bench Mark Works
662 312 2838 cell 9 am to 4pm CST PLEASE!
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Re: R67 electrical problem
I have ordered a replacement brake light switch assembly and the mounting hardware it needs even though this switch bench tested fine. The only other things I can think of that could be the problem are a short in the taillight assembly or in the wire between the switch and the tail light, both of which showed continuity when I rested them before.
Any other things I might be missing? I’m poor at electrics, is there any way that attaching the wires to the brake switch reversed could be causing the problem?
‘51 R67 w/ Steib s350, ‘71 R75/5