WHICH OIL

[Barry Robin]

hi' ya there, peter-
you know that everybody's going to have an opinion on that one...!

that being said, i usually use straight 40 dinasour oil in my earlier bikes (and the trannies like them better too), though 10-40 works just fine too, even if i do tend to use it more on the later slash 2s; it's more about consistency-decide on one and stick with it by season-and please try not to mix the grades.

and it depends on your location too. melbourne will be more suitable for the heavier oils, whereas alice would run better on the lightest...
-barry

[BMAIRHEAD]

I just use a cheap mineral oil (Shell Helix). How often it gets changed is more important, I do mine every 6 months or 1000 miles. The reason being that the old airheads have no replacement oil filter. There is only a strainer in the sump that needs to be cleaned out about every 2 years and that involves dropping the oil pan and hoping the gasket is in good condition.

If you decide to do this better to have a new gasket on hand. Also, make sure you don't overtighten the bolts when replacing the pan. You would be amazed at the amount of sludge that settles in the oil pan over time.

Also, when dropping out old oil, I've found that sitting on the rear of the seat and letting the bike tilt back onto the rear wheel gets rid of the last of the old oil out of the pan.

[c.d.iesel]

MORRIS Elite 40 for your motor

MORRIS Elite 50 in your gearbox

SAE 90 HYPOID GL-4 in your rear drive

available from Mr. Bauer at : http://www.ahrma.org/supply.htm

MORRIS Elite single weights are excellent, low-detergent oils which
match the oil slinging, and sediment screen method of 'dirt and sediment'
filtration in the bottoms of the /2 motors - without 'modern' paper filltration.

Morris Elite Engine Oil (SAE 30, 40, 50, 60) (API SD). New SAE 60 now available! Morris Elite Engine Oils are formulated with high quality mineral oils and are specifically designed for vintage and classic motorcycles. Early oil filtration, usually in the form of simple screens or other crude filters is not efficient enough to remove the harmful contamination held in suspension by modern high detergent oils. Morris Elite Engine Oils are low dispersency, non bore glazing oils with a balanced amount of detergents and modern additives appropriate to vintage and classic engine designs. In addition, anti-foam performance makes these oils the ideal choice for most types of vintage and classic gearboxes where monograde engine oils are recommended.

[jerothe7301]

MORRIS Elite 40 for your motor

MORRIS Elite 50 in your gearbox

SAE 90 HYPOID GL-4 in your rear drive

I should proably know this but I need to ask anyway. I have seen several posts referencing "the Motor" "The Gearbox" and the "Final or Rear Drive" in regards to oil. The motor and the final drive are obvious. I'm assuming the "Grearbox" is the rear wheel?

Thanks for your patience with this newbee

[c.d.iesel]

"Gearbox" is Transmission = Trans = Tranny = 4-Speed = 5-Speed

Engine = Motor = Mill

Rear End = Rear Drive = Rear Diff = Ring and Pinion - all at the rear wheel

Drive Shaft = Shaft Tube = U-Joints

[Peter]

Just to clarify, there are three places to add oil, one being the engine which is obvious, the second being the gearbox, the filler plug for which is back a little from the oil filler, look to the gear lever and find where it enters the engine casing and the filler plug should be close, then there is the final drive, this is the big hub section on the rear wheeel, if you stand behind the bike you should be able to look down and see the filler plug for the final drive.

All three fluids are very different and need checking at least every service.

[VBMWMO]

Thanks everyone for the previous imput, next question as follows

1952 R51/3 do I use monograde SAE40 oil only as per mechanics recommendation and manual.

Thanks Peter