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Here's a short video from when I had it running https://youtube.com/shorts/c8te9INmzkY?feature=share
So far from what I have read, you covered the big items that I would have suggested for bring a long time sitting bike back to life. At less than 700 miles, you sure don't have to worry much about worn stuff, I bet the points and valves are still in the dealer's set up still. That is if you had a good dealership set the bike up, lol.
Really the major concern I would have is the tires, I would replace them as 20years is a long time and tires don't sit well, at least look at the sidewalls and between the tread for signs of cracking, but really replace them and the tubes.
One spot to check is the speedometer cable grommet on the transmission, it should not be cracked, a fast check of other "plastic" parts may be in order. Most of this will be cosmetic except the grommet, a bad grommet can be a source of water getting into the transmission when washing sitting in rain.
As for the internal engine seals, well, it is a gamble wether to replace them as they can get brittle or degrade with time sitting or just start riding and look for leaks. Personally, I would start riding and keep an eye out for leaks.
The rear main seal located between engine and transmission is one seal prone to leak after sitting as well as the engine pushrod seals. If they start leaking you will see it soon. Really the same goes for any of the seals.
Oh last thing, Brakes, I don't know what shape the master cylinder fluid is in but I would check for signs of it leaking then if it is, rebuild. Regardless, I would empty the brakes, flush with new fluid and fill. Check to see the caliper works without sticking. Rust could form in the bore of the wheel caliper and the master cylinder. Brake fluid loves to absorb moisture over time. You have a drum on the rear, no problem there unless a final drive seal starts leaking wait to see if that happens.
Where are you located? I have a lift and tools plus I have a nearby airhead shop all near Rochester NY. St.
I figured the brake’s would need to be done. I’ll add that to the list. Tires are in really good shape surprisingly no serious cracks or dry rot. I’ll probably replace them anyway. No leaks that I’ve seen yet.
The engine oil was dark but luckily did not seem to be full of moisture. Transmission fluid look good but will change anyway. I still have to check the final drive.
LOL, one hint it was stored properly is the saddle bag/pannier bracket on the mufflers is not rusted. St.
Clean the plug up, fill it and ride it or run it in gear on the center stand wheel off the ground. If you don't hear any strange grinding or bearing noises and it shifts in and out of gear, ride it for a bit then change the fluid and check the plug again.
Unless your grandfather was extremely hard shifting I would gamble the bits of metal you have so far are normal. Of course if he has 100,660 miles on it and not 660, I would be worried a bearing is gone or something is amiss.
Oh I forgot to ask, did the fluid come out looking good or did it look like chocolate milk? I would be worried if it looked like chocolate milk that means water was in it and then a bearing could be gone.
Treat it like a new bike with a break in interval for main engine oil and gear oils. They are cheap, and will tell you the status of things. St.
I would change the fork oil also. It probably doesn't need it, but fork oil is not expensive and after 20 years it couldn't hurt. If you don't have a manual, check e-bay. Haynes has a decent one.
Good luck and enjoy that beautiful bike.
Some good news! Something I didn't know but do now. '74 R60/6's don't have front disk brakes. They have drum brakes in the front and back so no brake fluid! After doing research online about the brake cylinders and looking at the repair manual I kept wondering why mine looked different. Then I looked under the tank and no master cylinder to be found. That makes things much easier.
Question, I saw in the manual that every so often the oil pan should be removed and cleaned. When would that be advisable to do? Also, I'll be keeping this bike in my garage that has a dehumidifier running 24/7 keeping the humidity at 50% (I'm a hobbyist machinist, I don't like my expensive tools rusting), How frequently should I change the engine oil, trans oil, and final drive oil?
A brief update:
Finishing up changing engine oil, transmission oil, driveshaft oil, and final drive oil. Just waiting on new washers for them. The paper gasket on the oil filter plate was like glued on. Ordered some crc gasket remover and these special die grinder discs to help remove the last of it. They're called 3m roloc bristle discs.
Last couple things to do:
Change fork oil
Make sure brakes are adjusted properly