My wifes friends parents are very elderly and will be vacating their home soon, they have a lovely black R60/6 that has been stored for at least 20 years in a workshop and they would like to hear it start & run before most likely parting with it.
I took a look at the weekend, it looks almost 100% original and complete apart from the perishing of rubber and chrome corrosion. I am a biker but I'm more of an old car guy and I'm sure I can get it to run!
I took the plugs out, lubed the cylinders, span it over on the starter and got oil pressure but no spark. I lifted the tank and started to check the wiring but ran out of time (and tools) to remove the front engine case to look at the points.
To my surprise all the electrics worked when connected to a good battery so no reason to assume she wouldn't start.
The fuel lines leak and the left side carb piston was stuck so I've applied some penetrating fluid before I go back next weekend.
So a couple of questions if I may.
Any direction on what to check once I've got at the points if I don't find something obvious like they are corroded closed? (I have pulled the clutch lever when turning over in case that prevents spark) I downloaded a wiring diagram but anything more specific would be helpful.
A source of parts in the UK if I wanted to replace the fuel hoses etc?
Lastly, despite getting her running or not I am likely to be trying to sell her on for them so any good contacts in the UK that might be interested and pay a fair price would be good. I'm in Surrey, close to Gatwick airport.
I'll try to add a few photo's.
They have been pretty good to me in the past for parts.
As for getting the old bike running, you are on the right path so far. Unless mice got in and chewed up or built a nest in the electrics, there is not much that can go wrong with airhead electrical systems. Corroded points, would be the first thing I would check as well as the timing advance system, the swing weight should move freely. Once you get the points adjusted, and the timing set, the real work will begin.
The biggest problem with a bike which has been sitting a long time is gunk from old gas and the damage it can do. I also see in your pictures there looks to be a gas tank cover on the bike. Those may be fine for short time where they can be removed from time to time to prevent rust but for long term storage, they can cause rust in the tank both inside and outside. So, I would get a flashlight and inspect the inside of your gas tank to see what the bottom of the tank looks like. The condition of the liner should be good.
It might be a good thing to take the carbs off and give them a good soaking in carb cleaner and blow out the passages. For this I would get a hold of a Bing rebuild book or a good manual. The above mentioned companies will have rebuild kits for the carbs on this bike.
I talk about rebuilding the carbs and if the bike was stored with a dry tank, no gas in it or the carbs, you may get lucky and not have to do a lot of what I just wrote.
I would also change all the gear oils, the transmission, driveshaft and final drive. Check the old oil for milkiness from water. Moisture in the trans and other gear systems can cause a lot of damage. If the bike has been stored in a dry location, I don't think you will have a problem with it but it is best to check.
A few days work and it will be running again. Good luck. St.
And don't rule out a bad condenser. Probably will want to check and basically replace it. Also, be sure the valves are set to proper clearances...0.15mm intake and 0.2mm exhaust.
As for parts, I figure your best place would be Motobins.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
There doesn't appear to be any mouse damage and the tank is in lovely condition on the outside, the inside looks and smells like red oxide paint. It has gunked the fuel taps, one does nothing and one leaks all the time.
I'm hoping to not mess about with timing, it ran when it was parked up and all I want to do is prove it will run, I won't be getting it road worthy, it will go to a new home for that so I'm hoping the points are corroded and it's nothing too complicated!
Schrader7032 - I have no spark, that is the problem that I hope is points related.
As much as it's tempting to get into it more I just don't have the time, if I can get it to start with a few drips of fuel that will be enough, rebuilding carbs etc is too much work and they want to sell it on anyway.
I appreciate the help so far.
The lack of spark is the problem. I removed the points and cleaned them up with fine emery although I couldn't remove all the marks on one side. I then realised I didn't have my feelers with me so I had to guess on the refitting, not ideal.
I have voltage at the points and the coils and the voltage appears to change as the points open/close. I checked the condenser and it appears to read fine also. The plug leads have resistance but without spec I don't know what I'm measuring.
It seems odd that I get no spark on either side.
So I think I need to get a manual, I assume this will give me the various spec I need and how to set the points timing and gap correctly.
In the mean time, as I have to travel to the bike with tools I'm thinking i could rig up a car coil, lead and sparkplug on a bench, once I know can re-create a spark by switching the coil I can test each coil, lead and plug when I get to the bike.
Any other suggestions?
What prevents the starter engaging and starting? Clutch lever, centre stand, anything like this I should bypass?
As for a bench set up, I'd pursue the basic of setting the ignition.
For the starter, the transmission must be in neutral or the clutch hand lever must be pulled in. These are "safety" features to prevent the starter from engaging with the engine is turning the flywheel.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Not helped by not having crocodile clips on my voltmeter, I need 3 arms!
As we are entering a lockdown in the UK I don't think I will be able to get to the bike for the next month so time to get a manual and do the theory side now!
I also seemed to think the ignition switch had too many positions, it seems to turn maybe 5 times, after 2 or 3 I have all the dash lights on, neutral, generator etc, I guess a look in the manual will explain.
You likely have a European model which I seem to recall had extra detents in the ignition switch. One of which is the headlights...my US /7 has constant-on headlights, so no switch position for that.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Kurt is doing a good job. I have nothing else to add but the above. Good Luck, cheers, St.