Transmission Cover replacement - 78 R100/7

schrader7032 · Post by **schrader7032** » Sun Apr 21, 2019 6:27 am

I've used Snowbum's notes to lube the splines on my transmission. For the life of me, I don't see the need to put the transmission in top gear. He's usually very detailed on things so maybe there's a reason...I must be missing something.

Kidasters · Post by **Kidasters** » Sun Apr 21, 2019 3:52 pm

OK -

Replaced the pin on the R90/6. Only had to remove the seat, battery, and battery tray to do it. Shoulder bolt in place made of 316 stainless steel, should be good for awhile.

At least I won't repeat this problem on that bike.

Kidasters · Post by **Kidasters** » Sun Apr 21, 2019 3:54 pm

Do you put the transmission in 2nd? Or leave it in Neutral? What do you do?

schrader7032 · Post by **schrader7032** » Sun Apr 21, 2019 3:57 pm

So, you're just removing the transmission from the bike? Or sliding it back to get a sneak peak of the input splines? I still don't see why it has to be in any gear. When I lubed my splines in a similar manner as Snowbum describes, once I had everything pulled back far enough, I had to rotate the splines a little bit around in order to get at all sides. I suppose it has to be in a gear so that the gear wheel can be turned in order to turn the splines. But generally, one could probably work around it.

Kidasters · Post by **Kidasters** » Sun Apr 21, 2019 4:48 pm

I'm going to remove the whole thing. I think it will be easier and less messy to replace the cover on my bench. Plus - I need to service the splines as well.

When you've done it, do you do it with the bike in gear? Or what?

schrader7032 · Post by **schrader7032** » Sun Apr 21, 2019 5:42 pm

Not in gear...doesn't make sense to me. Once you've removed the carb air horns, air filter and housing, battery and battery tray, there should be enough room to simply slide the trans back and out. Well, of course, the driveshaft bolts at the back of the transmission have to come off. And I suspect that the swingarm pins need to be removed so the whole rear part of the bike can slide back to allow the transmission to slide back and out. I'm probably missing a few things, but that's the big stuff.

Can't figure out why being in gear matters.

One thing...before removing the swingarm pins, etc., break the output flange transmission bolts free. Do this by stepping on the rear brake and getting your wrench onto the heads of the bolts. Install new bolts when going back together...the short bolts without the lock washers. Don't use the older longer bolts which were locked in place with the lock washers. Short bolts with a dab of blue Loctite and a good grunt with the toolkit wrench.

Kidasters · Post by **Kidasters** » Sun Apr 21, 2019 7:14 pm

Maybe he's saying put it in 5th in order to break the output flange bolts free.

OK - I feel more confident about doing this now. I appreciate all the comments.

schrader7032 · Post by **schrader7032** » Sun Apr 21, 2019 8:02 pm

I don't think putting it in 5th gear helps break the bolts...maybe but I'm not sure. Say it's in 5th gear and you begin to turn the flange bolts...it's possible I suppose that turning the bolts will cause the transmission gears to rotate which in turn causes the engine to rotate. Seems to me much easier to just step on the rear brake to resist the torque of the bolts.

Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners

Transmission Cover replacement - 78 R100/7

I've used Snowbum's notes to

Replaced the pin with a shoulder bolt

So - when you do the job

So, you're just removing the

I'm going to remove the whole

Not in gear...doesn't make

maybe that's why

I don't think putting it in