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drive shaft oil level?

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Peter
Posts: 114
Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2007 9:30 pm

drive shaft oil level?

Post by Peter »

Hi Doug,

I've always used the bottom thread of the plug rule, it's easiest to remember and can be done by eye.
R42, R12, R51/3, R69S

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schrader7032
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drive shaft oil level?

Post by schrader7032 »

Just put in the measured amount. It's very difficult to measure some kind of level because of the shaft in the tube. I'm pretty sure fluid to the bottom of the threads is too much and will reduce the air volume needed for expansion of the fluid and any heat build up. The 100cc is fine and will be easily sloshed around for the necessary lubrication.

Other fill locations like the final drive and tranny are to the bottom of the threads...the driveshaft just needs the prescribed amount.

Kurt in S.A.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.

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RainyRider
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Joined: Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:25 am

drive shaft oil level?

Post by RainyRider »

I too noticed the Clymer said 100cc. However, the BMW maintenance manual said 200cc, which brings it about to the bottom of the threads - I put in 180cc...so far, so good....
There are several "odd" things in the Clymer manual....I think the final drive called for 1/4 liter (250cc) ; the BMW manual called for 150cc...which brought it to the bottom of the threads....

YMMV

fred t.

'57 BMW R-50

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sonofrust
Posts: 97
Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 10:22 pm

drive shaft oil level?

Post by sonofrust »

Thanks, everybody! I guess I'll go a bit more than the 100mL, as per the mean re. the advice out there.

As far as the 1/4 liter suggested for the final drive, I too found out that was a bit much when my measured quantity started overflowing out of the fill hole way before I was done pouring it in. My "manual reader" father was quick to remind me too that all levels should be read while the bike is on the center stand; whereas mine was on my platform lift with the front wheel in the vise and both tires on the platform. When I finish the service, I'll get the bike up on the center stand and double check everything, I guess.

Kind of surprising how little engine oil is used in these bikes. Also, kind of funny that the owners manual suggests changing it at 30 to 60 days if you don't rack up the prescribed mileage for the change interval. I have numerous bikes and don't put lots of mileage on any of them, so I never reach the recommended oil change mileage. In the past, I've let the oil go between 6 months to a year before feeling compelled to change the oil (and filter) again. I'm wondering if that's okay. Truth is, with the minimal use I put on all of the bikes, I'm guessing they'll all outlast me, regardless of the frequency of my oil changes...

Thanks!

Doug
1964 BMW R60/2, 2010 Harley-Davidson Road King Police, 2006 Kawasaki ZX-14

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schrader7032
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drive shaft oil level?

Post by schrader7032 »

There's one significant difference on the /2 versus possibly your other bikes and the oil change philosophy. There is no filter and today's modern detergent oils tend to keep the bits in suspension more which normally a filter can pull out. In these bikes, it will tend to end up in the slinger. With the older non-detergent oil, there was more settling going on, so the oil pan might have a bit more grunge in it rather than ending up in the slinger.

The recommendations I've heard is to change your oil fairly frequently on the /2, probably every 500 to 1000 miles or once a year...possibly twice, once before the nice riding starts in the spring and one before going into winter.

The price of a slinger job can easily pay for many, many oil changes, not to mention the downtime to strip the block and reassemble!

Kurt in S.A.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.

RichM752
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Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:40 am

drive shaft oil level?

Post by RichM752 »

That's a handy bit of information. Thanks.
RichM752
An honest man's pillow is his piece of mind.

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sonofrust
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drive shaft oil level?

Post by sonofrust »

Yep, I can see another series of dirty slinger nightmares for me. The more I think about this, the more I'm starting to believe that my only salvation from this horror may be to just pull the motor apart and see what's going on in there, once and for all. What makes this so hard to fathom is that the bike looks and runs so well! If it were some dirty, rusty old stove, this would be a much easier task to tackle; psychologically, at least.

As some of you might recall from my previous posts, I recently bought a really nice looking "restored" bike with an "incomplete" maintenance record. The previous owner knew what the slingers were when I asked him, but had no past documentation as to whether they had actually ever been serviced. He said something like, "You'd think they would have done them with all of the other work that has been performed," or something to that effect. Not what I would describe as reassuring.

The bike has a total of about 45,000 miles on the clock. The time that many here say is the interval for those negligent of slinger cleaning to expect their engine to explode without warning, on a sunny Sunday afternoon while riding along blissfully to the local coffee shop with a big smile on your face; or if you're lucky, your roller bearings will simply freeze up and destroy the crankshaft (within seconds) that only a few humans on the planet can even attempt to fix. I guess I really have no choice, do I?

So frequent oil changes it is, along with a complete dissection of the engine at some point in the near future.

I'll keep you all posted when I get the courage to dive in. Anyone who has attempted this service in the recent past, let me know if this is even possible for an untrained mechanic, such as myself, to even attempt on their own. The local BMW dealers don't want to do any work on my older bike, and I'm not remotely aware of anyone locally who could do this for me. Maybe the best bet is to attempt the engine removal and partial tear down myself and ship the tricky bits out to Bench Mark Works.

Thanks!

Doug
1964 BMW R60/2, 2010 Harley-Davidson Road King Police, 2006 Kawasaki ZX-14

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schrader7032
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drive shaft oil level?

Post by schrader7032 »

Anyone who has attempted this service in the recent past, let me know if this is even possible for an untrained mechanic, such as myself, to even attempt on their own. The local BMW dealers don't want to do any work on my older bike, and I'm not remotely aware of anyone locally who could do this for me. Maybe the best bet is to attempt the engine removal and partial tear down myself and ship the tricky bits out to Bench Mark Works.

Doug -

I acquired my R69S about 5-6 years ago, rode it for a year to better know what it needed, and then proceeded with the teardown. The bike had about 27K miles on it. I felt comfortable completely dismantling the top end, the front electrics, and removing the tranny and clutch. At that point, I put the block (with rods still attached) and other pertinent bits into my car and drove to my mechanics shop. I knew of someone in the St. Louis area that I felt I could trust. He basically did the work while I waited. I took my block home but had to leave the heads so they could be worked on. Once home, I began the reassembly and waited for heads.

I can provide my series of pictures I took documenting my steps...I wish I had taken more pics! This may be helpful with ideas of how to proceed. I didn't think I could handle the removal of the crank and cam and associated bearing replacements. But everything else seemed doable to me...along with my pictures.

Vech would certainly be a good one to use; there are others. I don't think Matt Parkhouse in Colorado Springs works on /2 bikes but he's a good mechanic for /5-on bikes. He might be a good one to ask for pointers and possible sources for mechanics.

Kurt in S.A.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.

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VBMWMO
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drive shaft oil level?

Post by VBMWMO »

Looking for some advice re. oil level for drive shaft on '64 R60/2. Clymer says fill with 100 mL and measure oil level 1/2 inch up from bottom of housing with a stiff wire. Manual says fill up to the bottom thread of the filler plug, and same for rear drive and trans. Any advice which way to go?

Thanks!

Doug
Dedicated to the Preservation of Classic and Antique BMW Motorcycles.

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