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New to me - R60/US need help

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schrader7032
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New to me - R60/US need help

Post by schrader7032 »

1) Yes, you have to bend the tabs...be careful, if bent too far or too many times, the tab will break off. Once you can free the board, I believe only the wires hold the board in place.

2) As you suspect, there's probably something wrong with the circuit board. You shoud study the wiring diagrams to understand how the switch works.

3) Check http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/brake/index.htm

4) I'm sure the points could be installed wrong but that shouldn't have anything to do with the flywheel being installed wrong. If you decide not to remove the flywheel, you could find TDC on the compression stroke and use some paint to mark that position. Then put other paint marks at equivalent distances around the edge of the flywheel to correspond to the static and full advance positions.

What do you mean by "ignition in full advance"? Does that mean that you have to statically time the bike so that the full advance mark is in the timing window? If so, that just means that the flywheel has been rotated CW (when viewed from the rear) some amount but you already know that. Try reestablishing the timing marks using the paint and then be sure your timing is set correctly and that the advance unit is functioning properly.

Kurt in S.A.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
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Darryl.Richman
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Flywheel markings

Post by Darryl.Richman »

The flywheel is keyed to the crankshaft, to ensure proper alignment and positioning of the markings. It should not be possible to install the flywheel incorrectly.

Although there's a woodruff key that goes between the flywheel and the crankshaft, it's not (nearly) big enough to keep the two locked together. What keeps them together is the taper fit between them, and the clamping force of the big screw (165 lb.ft.).

The flywheel on my R60/2 was apparently not torqued down to the correct value initially, and the flywheel eventually spun about 40 degrees from its initial setting. It "smeared out" the woodruff key between the flywheel and crankshaft. The inner taper of the flywheel was ruined, and I had to get a new one. (Thank heavens that the crankshaft wasn't also ruined.) It's apparently a very difficult process to repair the taper.
--Darryl Richman

Allan.Atherton
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Re: New to me - R60/US need help

Post by Allan.Atherton »

...The bike won't turn off after I start it so I have added a cutoff switch to ground the magneto wire.... How do I remove the switch / circuit board from the headlight? ... What's the trick to getting the front brake to work as good as possible?... I have confirmed that the flywheel was installed incorrectly (F & S do not show up in timing window)....
Pulling up the key is supposed to ground the coil and kill the ignition. See if you can help that situation before removing the terminal board, because that can be risky.

It is not possible to install the flywheel wrong unless the key was omitted, so more likely your timing is not set up right on the front of the engine. Read this article on mag setup:
http://members.aol.com/VechBMW/tech.html
After the mag is set up properly, then adjust the point gap, and then rotate the points plate to adjust the timing. The points must be set before the timing is adjusted because a tiny variation in the points equals a large amount of plate rotation. People sometimes say they can't rotate the plate enough - it's because their points are so far off.

Here is a piece on brake adjustment:

================
Front Brake Adjustment
Daniel Frost , Airhead List, 1999

The rear cam lever should be remounted on its shaft so that when rotated as far anti-clockwise as it can go (pressing shoe against the drum), makes a 90-degree angle with the cable going to the front cam lever. Looking at photographs of the right side of a /2 can also be helpful getting the rear cam lever correctly on its shaft. The front cam lever should be loosely in place pointing down.

When the cam levers are correct the front brake cable should be installed. Now comes the fun part, adjusting the eccentric adjuster. On the /2 the end of the eccentric levers shaft is squared off, and is turned with a small adjustable wrench. The smallest size, offset vice-grip also works well. On the US fork an Allen wrench and a box wrench are used together. Using the Allen wrench the adjuster shaft is rotated clockwise until resistance is met and rotating the wheel assembly detects contact of the shoe against the drum. Ignore that the contact is variable this is not a test of concentricity. I personally like to have a little contact. Bedding in will even things out. When you have it right, snug down the locking nut.

Again, when the adjustment is complete the cam lever should be a little anti-clockwise to a 90-degree angle to the brake cable. The idea is that when the brake lever is pulled and the cable is taut, both cam levers are perpendicular to the cable, and therefore have the maximum leverage available. There should be only a small amount of movement possible at the front cam lever.

Finally the brake cable is adjusted at the front cam lever until full force on the brake lever gives a 5-mm gap there is no drag when the wheel is rotated.

If set up correctly, pulling on the brake lever will cause take up first by the rear cam lever, then the front. After bedding in, readjustment of the cable can be done at either the brake lever or at the front cam lever. Readjustment of the eccentric should not be necessary.
==================

ahdoman
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New to me - R60/US need help

Post by ahdoman »

Thanks for the good info guys. In regards to the circuit board apparently not working correctly; I have studied the Clymer wiring diagram and I know everything is wired correctly. I have also cleaned the contacts on the lever of the board (the one the key pushes down when inserted). What is the trick to bending the tabs to remove it? Needle nose pliers? Flathead screwdriver? meditation and chants? Who has done this and how?

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Darryl.Richman
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New to me - R60/US need help

Post by Darryl.Richman »

Before taking the board out, take the headlight off and then watch the action of the switch when you insert the key. It may need just a slight bend to make it work correctly. You should be able to push the end of it up, into contact on the board, to make the engine stop.

If you decide to take the board out, I have done it a couple times this way:

Get under the tabs with a very thin screwdriver tip to bend it down enough so that you can then finish the job with a needlenose pliers. I have a pair of needlenose with a 45* bend and they work well in this situation.

Use the screwdriver on all four tabs first. When you start in with the pliers, use your thumb on the opposite hand to hold the board in place. There's a somewhat stiff spring between the board and the headlight shell that will tend to cock the board as it is released. Do not put a ton of pressure on the board, however, as it is possible to break it.

Bend the tabs only as much as is necessary to free the board.
--Darryl Richman

ahdoman
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New to me - R60/US need help

Post by ahdoman »

Thanks for the info Darryl. I was able to bend the spring slightly to make it work and now the bike stops! Now my problem is a stuck advance unit. I took the bolt out but I can't get the advance to come off the shaft. Any ideas?

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VBMWMO
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New to me - R60/US need help

Post by VBMWMO »

A client of mine gave me a 1969 R60/US. It was in pieces on a pallet (engine and tranny were assembled). I now have it assembled but have a couple of problems. Any help would be great...
1) How do I remove the switch / circuit board from the headlight? I know I have to bend down the tabs but how do I do that without damaging the circuit card?
2) The bike won't turn off after I start it so I have added a cutoff switch to ground the magneto wire. Any ideas why the stock configuration won't work? I suspect a problem in the switch which is the reason for question #1.
3) What's the trick to getting the front brake to work as good as possible?
4) I have confirmed that the flywheel was installed incorrectly (F & S do not show up in timing window). Is it also possible for the points / advance assembly to also be put on wrong? I have to put the ignition into full advance to get it to run decent.

Thanks for any input.
Dedicated to the Preservation of Classic and Antique BMW Motorcycles.

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