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Best oil/lube products

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Darryl.Richman
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BMW nicknames

Post by Darryl.Richman »

I'm sure that you've heard of different eras of Hardley Ablesons being referred to as Panheads or Knuckleheads or the like. There's a similar shorthand for BMWs. Although it's in general use, BMW doesn't use it.

"Airhead" is a post-hoc name used to distinguish the strictly air cooled boxers from the "Oilhead" boxers that were introduced in 1993 and have an extra oil pump dedicated to circulating oil around the exhaust area of the head to provide additional cooling. There is now a new name to distinguish the latest 1200cc bikes that have left the rounded valve covers of the 1100 and 1150 bikes behind: Hexheads.

There are both Airhead and Oilhead clubs out there. Google is your friend.

I guess in a general way "Airhead" should apply to all BMW air cooled bikes before 1993, but in actual use it refers to the type 247 motor bikes produced from 1970-1995 (eg, from the /5 series forward to the end of production of the R100 Mystic). The previous series of bikes, from 1956-1969, including the R50, R60, R69, R50/2, R60/2, R50S, R69S, R50US, R60US and R69US, along with the R26 and R27 singles, are all rolled up in the name "/2", however imperfect that name might be.

In a similar way, the bikes from 1950-1955 are often called /3s. The late prewar bikes are often referred to as the tube frame bikes; the bikes with the U-channel frames are called pressed-steel frame bikes (or, via a misunderstanding of the german language, star frame bikes), and the first set of bikes, from 1923 to 1929, are referred to as the hanging tank or stecktank bikes.

You can find out more (!) about BMW bike naming at my web site.
--Darryl Richman

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schrader7032
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Best oil/lube products

Post by schrader7032 »

There's another discussion about /2 and other naming schemes at http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/slash.htm and at http://www.airheads.org/content/view/236/98/.

Oils, huh?? Nice can of works there... :) This discussion has come up on many forums from time to time...it's quite a passionate issue. You can start with various manuals and see what's recommended. There are also quite a few websites that discuss oils. I came across this one recently... http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html. As for gear oils, the big consideration is whether to use a GL4 or GL5 rated oil. Probably the most important thing is to use a quality oil and change it often.

Valve clearances and head bolt torque is correct. As for parts, I'd check with Vech at Bench Mark Works in Mississippi. He's also good for getting technical questions answered. Give him a call.

Kurt in S.A.

Edited to include additional "/"discussion.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.

wicks
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GL4 or GL5

Post by wicks »

I read something that GL5 corrodes yellow metals and so we should be using GL4 in these bikes.
Wicks
1962 R69S, 2006 M5, 2000 Aprilia RSV Mille R, 1997 Defender 90, 2007 Benelli M4 ;)

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schrader7032
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Best oil/lube products

Post by schrader7032 »

Yes, there were lots of discussions on the /2 forum about this subject recently. The owner's manuals of the day weren't very specific and in fact, the oil required changed from regular motor oil to hypoid oil, most likely when improvements in seals were introduced. But what does hypoid mean? There are different ratings of hypoid and have something to do with the hypoid gears and the methods in which they mesh. Extreme pressure hypoid (GL5) is required in certain situations. But does that apply to our /2 transmissions?

The discussion brought in issues with BMW 2002 transmissions, Volvo tranmissions, different grades of "yellow" metals, you name it. Someone found yellowish material in a tranny after using a specific brand of gear oil (escapes me now) and attributed it to the GL5 and high sulphur content. GL4 has sulphur in it, but just lower levels.

For all the hubbub, I just don't see transmissions falling by the side of the road. Technical gurus on the Airheads list who have rebuilt hundreds of transmissions have seen no GL5 related failures. I just don't see where there is a concern. It might lower the life of a transmission somewhat, but it may be that the tranny would fail for other reasons long before that. It's hard to separate failure due to only the oil from all of the other possibilities for failure.

But GL4 is available, so if it helps people sleep at night, it's the thing to do. Vech has a write up on his website about this, but there are opinions on all sides of the fence.

Kurt in S.A.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2
Fast. Neat. Average. Friendly. Good. Good.

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pierce7221
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Best oil/lube products

Post by pierce7221 »

aside from vech, NAPA (at least around here) carries GL-4 gear oil. sta-lube brand, if i recall. i think they're the only retail outlet that does. after reading vech's article about it, i decided i'd use it.

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VBMWMO
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Best oil/lube products

Post by VBMWMO »

Question for the pros:

Best/weight of engine oil?
Best/weight of transmission oil?
Drive unit/swing arm
Type of grease for swing arm bearings? Moly?

What is the best source for basic service items like fuel and air filters, etc.?

Are the valve clearances I see printed on the service bulletin from 1964 still correct? (.006 & .008) I imagine the head bolt torque should be checked/set before doing that (at 25ftlb)?

I am still wondering what /2 and airhead mean. ;)
Dedicated to the Preservation of Classic and Antique BMW Motorcycles.

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