New owner of R50
Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 2:52 am
Hi Tom,
Firstly congratulations on buying the bike. Now what to look for, this is part of the list I normally give to anyone looking to buy a pre69 BMW.
1. The engine in your bike has 2 oil slingers at either side of the crank. These have lips at their circumference that collect any rubbish / dirt within the engine oil by centrifugal force. Over time say 40k miles the slingers gradually fill up. Incorporated in the slingers is a hole that feeds oil to the crank big end. If the accumulation of rubbish in the slingers gets too high it will seal this hole. You will then get oil starvation of your crank big end & rapid wear. As part of the maintenance regime the slingers will need cleaning out at say 40k mile intervals. this will require the engine to be stripped. Hopefully this has been done before you bought the bike by a reputable & knowledgable person who has then correctly assembled the engine to the correct tolerances. If this has not happened & your bike has circa 40k or more miles showing. I'd recommend you consider spliting the engine to carry out this work.
Once this is done, change the oil every 1000 miles, the gearbox, drive shaft & rear bevel should be changed every 5000 miles.
2. Take out both your wheels & look for any sign of cracking / bumps on the steel braking surface of the hubs. Here in the UK these hubs suffer from differential corrosion between the steel & the aluminium. The braking surface cracks resulting in poor braking performance.
3. Stand your bike on it's centre stand. Stand to one side & look at the bike, if both wheels are touching the ground then you have wear in the centre stand bushes, these can be drilled out & larger bushes installed.
Buy yourself a clymer manual for the bike or get a modern copy of the original BMW workshop manual which are easily available. This will tell you most of the regular maintenance tasks & how to do them.
Finally when you ride always take a small tool roll & carry a spare carb float. These in my experience frequently fail & it's very simple to swap them over.
If you would like to know any further specifics, please PM me.
Regards
Peter
Firstly congratulations on buying the bike. Now what to look for, this is part of the list I normally give to anyone looking to buy a pre69 BMW.
1. The engine in your bike has 2 oil slingers at either side of the crank. These have lips at their circumference that collect any rubbish / dirt within the engine oil by centrifugal force. Over time say 40k miles the slingers gradually fill up. Incorporated in the slingers is a hole that feeds oil to the crank big end. If the accumulation of rubbish in the slingers gets too high it will seal this hole. You will then get oil starvation of your crank big end & rapid wear. As part of the maintenance regime the slingers will need cleaning out at say 40k mile intervals. this will require the engine to be stripped. Hopefully this has been done before you bought the bike by a reputable & knowledgable person who has then correctly assembled the engine to the correct tolerances. If this has not happened & your bike has circa 40k or more miles showing. I'd recommend you consider spliting the engine to carry out this work.
Once this is done, change the oil every 1000 miles, the gearbox, drive shaft & rear bevel should be changed every 5000 miles.
2. Take out both your wheels & look for any sign of cracking / bumps on the steel braking surface of the hubs. Here in the UK these hubs suffer from differential corrosion between the steel & the aluminium. The braking surface cracks resulting in poor braking performance.
3. Stand your bike on it's centre stand. Stand to one side & look at the bike, if both wheels are touching the ground then you have wear in the centre stand bushes, these can be drilled out & larger bushes installed.
Buy yourself a clymer manual for the bike or get a modern copy of the original BMW workshop manual which are easily available. This will tell you most of the regular maintenance tasks & how to do them.
Finally when you ride always take a small tool roll & carry a spare carb float. These in my experience frequently fail & it's very simple to swap them over.
If you would like to know any further specifics, please PM me.
Regards
Peter