I am restoring my 1956 R26 and am currently working on the drive gears. It needed new seals and I can tell it has previously been apart. I purchased all new bearings and seals but now have to make a choice. It currently has the correct 3303 DN (X) pinion bearing and it is no longer available. Max BMW has run out of the ones they got from Benchmark, and Salis can't get one. I got a new 3303 ATN9 with metal cage from Salis and they claim it is correct. My old correct bearing seems perfect on examination with no play, visible wear, and is perfectly smooth rolling. (The oil was clean and all the bearings actually seem to be perfect). Would you use the old correct bearing that the Berrington Manual says has the correct roller angle that carries higher loads, or go with the new bearing?
Thanks for your thoughts!
Jim
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Which Pinion Bearing Would You Use?
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VintageJim
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Re: Which Pinion Bearing Would You Use?
If Jan says it’s right put it in. I always use new bearings when possible.
James Wonder
Vice President, Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners
2022 BMW Friend Of the Marque
Long Island, New York
Vice President, Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners
2022 BMW Friend Of the Marque
Long Island, New York
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Rodolfo850
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Re: Which Pinion Bearing Would You Use?
Use a new bearing.
A 3303 ATN9. with steel cage will easy handle the job, even better than DN with Poliamid cage.
I believe Poliamid cage was used to reduce noise and production cost.
This machines have a big degree of overload protection on all bearings. (speed, load and thermal conditions)
A 3303 ATN9. with steel cage will easy handle the job, even better than DN with Poliamid cage.
I believe Poliamid cage was used to reduce noise and production cost.
This machines have a big degree of overload protection on all bearings. (speed, load and thermal conditions)
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VintageJim
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Re: Which Pinion Bearing Would You Use?
Thanks for the advice! I will now start the reassembly.
It is pretty amazing how over-built and complex each component of bike is. The engine, the transmission, the rear drive, and even the wheel bearings take so much time to measure, shim, heat fit the bearing, and do it all correctly. It makes you wonder how they did all of this on an assembly line. I guess that is why they were expensive at the time and why they are still around 70 years later to restore. I am just thankful that dedicated people (many on this site) continue to pass on the knowledge and took the time to document and write books like the Barrington Manual that make it possible for dedicated restorers to actually bring these works of art back to life!
It is pretty amazing how over-built and complex each component of bike is. The engine, the transmission, the rear drive, and even the wheel bearings take so much time to measure, shim, heat fit the bearing, and do it all correctly. It makes you wonder how they did all of this on an assembly line. I guess that is why they were expensive at the time and why they are still around 70 years later to restore. I am just thankful that dedicated people (many on this site) continue to pass on the knowledge and took the time to document and write books like the Barrington Manual that make it possible for dedicated restorers to actually bring these works of art back to life!