R60/2 Headlight keeps burning out

[brettironbutt]

Hello! I just finished a run from Sweden-Germany-Czech Rep-Slovakia-Poland-Lithuania-Lativa-Estonia- and back to Sweden. It was during the "heat wave". I ride a 1967 BMW R60/2. I bought and rebuilt it with much tech advice from Vech in 2010. The is my second long ride since installing a 12V converter kit (from Benchmarkworks). The issue is that my BA20D headlight bulb burned out near the Ukraine border. I put in my spare (which I keep in the bucket), and it burned out before Estonia. I bought two new ones in Estonia. The first two to burn out were 60/60W, the new one I bought in Estonia was 35/35W, and it still works, but has black discoloring inside the bulb on the glass on the top half. I just ordered 2 LED replacements from BMW Max, but I am unsure if I have another or different problem. Advice welcome!

Also: Vech, if you read this, I would like to thank you for challenging me to learn how to change the tubes with the factory irons. I had a flat in Bratislava, and changed it in the hotel parking garage, on my own! How I managed to fish the stem through still amazes me! Thanks!

[vechorik1373]

Brett

Yes, I'm reading this. Blowing headlight bulbs that fast, indicates there is one of two problems.
1. if the roads your riding on are rough as hell, the banging and bouncing shock can break filaments.

2. You need to check the system to see if it is overcharging. Put a volt meter across the battery and read your voltage. You should see, when revved up 13.5 - 14 volts. If you see way more, the voltage regulator is failing. Until you replace it, it will happen again. If you ordered a LED bulb from MAX (the bulbs that I sold) it will not be effected by too high of voltage, they work up to 30 volts no problem.
BUT, understand this. The incandescent bulb had two filaments at different heights in the bulb. What this did, was when you switched to hi beam, it refocused the light UP and it would light up signs, trees, etc. While the LED bulb has a hi and low intensity feature, because all of the LEDs are at a fixed height, The light does get brighter on hi beam, but the beam will not rise up.

And on the subject of changing a tube on the side of the road, remember this!
BMW's have drop center safety rims. See those 5 "notches" in the drop center of the rim, opposite the side that the valve stem comes out of? Those deep notches are there to increase the inside diameter so the tire won't come off the rim if you have a flat.

What does this mean when changing a tire, or replacing a tube? You must press the tire down, with your knees, into the drop center, where the valve stem is. You start the dismount of the tire, (and yes the short tire tools in the tool kit will work) opposite the valve stem. To try it any other way, the bead of the tire will drop down in the drop center, but those notches act to increase the diameter, and make it MUCH harder, or damn near impossible to get the bead over the edge of the rim with the tire irons in the tool kit.
After you fish the tube out on the side of the road, having removed only one side of the tire from the rim, and install a new tube, you put the tire back on, starting at the valve stem, and working the bead over the edge of the rim, back and forth until you finish dead opposite of the valve stem, on the rim.

[brettironbutt]

Vech,
Thanks! I am going to replace all the rubber at home, and practice my technique. Here is a picture of me sweating after doing so in 38celsius!

[brettironbutt]

Vech,
I was on pretty rough roads. but not three bulbs worth. If I have a voltage regulator problem... I will diagnose tomorrow. I think I am at 14, or 14.1 when I am full rev. I don't even know where the VR is. All the other bulbs were fine, just the headlight, which was burning out. Thanks for keeping in touch. You are 99% the reason I have my bike.
v-r
Brett

[jwonder]

Brett,

Who’s side bags are those? I like those!!

[brettironbutt]

I made them myself! (And the help of a leather guy!)