1967 R69S restoration

[sherman980]

Before you go down the repaint route... Ask your painter for the remains of the paint he used for your bike along with some thinner and possibly activator (depends on the kind of paint he used). Thin it a bit and try applying a small dab to the cracked area. You want it to flow into the crack. It will wick under any paint that has been "loosened" and effectively "restick" it. It may also relieve some of the cured paint that is raised up (again depending on the paint type). Let it sit for a few days to get good and hard and see what you have. It may look good or it may need to be "dressed". If it needs to be dressed, a little 600 grit wet/dry sand paper used wet should lower any high spots and blend the area with the rest of the bucket. Follow with 1000 grit used wet, a little rubbing compound and wax. If, in the end, you're still not happy, give it back to the painter, have him tape the washers you just installed and repaint the whole thing... Yes, a PIA, but these things happen...

Hope that helps.

[skychs]

Before you go down the repaint route... Ask your painter for the remains of the paint he used for your bike along with some thinner and possibly activator (depends on the kind of paint he used). Thin it a bit and try applying a small dab to the cracked area. You want it to flow into the crack. It will wick under any paint that has been "loosened" and effectively "restick" it. It may also relieve some of the cured paint that is raised up (again depending on the paint type). Let it sit for a few days to get good and hard and see what you have. It may look good or it may need to be "dressed". If it needs to be dressed, a little 600 grit wet/dry sand paper used wet should lower any high spots and blend the area with the rest of the bucket. Follow with 1000 grit used wet, a little rubbing compound and wax. If, in the end, your still not happy, give it back to the painter, have him tape the washers you just installed and repaint the whole thing... Yes, a PIA, but these things happen...

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the advice. I have a call out to the painter to see what he has to say.

[Tinkertimejeff]

Kinda like popping the front fender brace rivets. Why do yo do that? Some headlight buckets have those dodads painted from the factory and some don't. Bead Blast the dodads and clear coat them, not to shiny and you don't have to re rivet anything. Sometimes you can over restore the bike and make it to perfect, once again it's your bike and your wallet so make the way you want it.

I like the documentation here but have a question about the process here.

Why would you attach all the finished sheet metal before you install the drive train front to rear?

I have done a few and follow a simple process of disassemble rear to front and reassemble front to rear, head light and wires comes after motor but before gas tank on these bikes. Heck I don't even stick the fly wheel, oil pan stuff, cylinders or timing cover on until the lower end is back in the frame and sitting fat and happy. I'm old and don't like to struggle with it. It seems to go a lot smoother and it's so much easier to stop and address fitment or function issues if you assemble front to back and fix along the way.

[skychs]

Kinda like popping the front fender brace rivets. Why do yo do that? Some headlight buckets have those dodads painted from the factory and some don't. Bead Blast the dodads and clear coat them, not to shiny and you don't have to re rivet anything. Sometimes you can over restore the bike and make it to perfect, once again it's your bike and your wallet so make the way you want it.

I like the documentation here but have a question about the process here.

Why would you attach all the finished sheet metal before you install the drive train front to rear?

I have done a few and follow a simple process of disassemble rear to front and reassemble front to rear, head light and wires comes after motor but before gas tank on these bikes. Heck I don't even stick the fly wheel, oil pan stuff, cylinders or timing cover on until the lower end is back in the frame and sitting fat and happy. I'm old and don't like to struggle with it. It seems to go a lot smoother and it's so much easier to stop and address fitment or function issues if you assemble front to back and fix along the way.

Thanks for your input.
Our local vintage BMW mechanic recommended removing the round plates for painting. Easy to do ... drill out the rivets then reinstall after painting. Unfortunately ... this time he used a harder rivet which caused him to torque the tin and crack the paint. Simple mistake owned by the mechanic.

In regards to the drive train ... everything is temporarily in place. The final drive and swing arm are loosely attached to the drive shaft and frame. There are no gaskets or fluid in the bike at all. It's simply a mockup until Im ready to put it all together. Once the engine is reassembled and ready to install I'll drop the final drive and swing arm to get it all into place. To add the transmission I was planning on tilting the engine up and forward.

The fuel tank is on the bike because its the safest place in my garage to store the tank.

The fenders are on and secured. The rear fender is also wired from the tail light to the electrical block behind the battery.

So ... It's all done to keep the parts together and safe. It also give me a rolling chassis in case I need the lift for one of my other bikes.
Chuck

[Jim D 5112]

I would suggest that you keep the fuel tank far away from the bike and covered, it should be the last thing that you put on the bike. Also keep the fenders covered at all times when working on putting the bike back together. I used to paint for people and could tell you stories of paint damage accidents when people were putting the bike back together. My friend was putting a few accessories on his brand-new Harley with just over 100 miles on it. He dropped the front master cylinder on the gas tank and chipped it. Had to send it back to the factory to repaint it. He never does anything without covering the paint with a couple of old towels. Better to be safe than sorry. If you think the headlight cracked paint bothers you just think what a big gagger in your fuel tank would do. But it's your bike and paint to do as you please. I always cover mine when using tools around it.

[skychs]

The engine came back from the shop today. The plan is to add the electronics and clutch then install it into the frame. The transmission is still out being rebuilt so that will come later.

Is anyone familiar with this coil? It's not the original but it would be nice to know. TIA

[schrader7032]

I think the coil is the Emeral Isle coil that Vech sold...maybe version 1. A second version with better ground came out...I think that one is blue.

[jwonder]

Kurt is right, the black coils had issues. I would toss it. Jan at Salis has some great options for coils now and I have used all his to great effect.

[skychs]

Kurt is right, the black coils had issues. I would toss it. Jan at Salis has some great options for coils now and I have used all his to great effect.

Thanks guys. A new coil has been ordered. Salis is out of stock but I found one locally.

[skychs]

Yesterday the new engine was installed into the frame. A statice tune up confirmed everything was in place and working. The "once over" cylinders and pistons went on without an issue. So far so good.